Tuesday, December 23, 2014

Ask Joe Mechanic - Gifting a Car for Christmas


Many of us parents have considered whether or not we would be wise to give the gift of an automobile to our child for Christmas.  The thought of how their young face will light up with delight when they realize what is “under” the tree this year can bring a parent as much joy and delight as it does their recipient kid.  However, to do the automobile gift giving right, you must follow several steps put forth by the state of Pennsylvania. 
So, before you undertake this magnitude of gift giving, lets us help you make sure you have crossed all of your merry “t’s” and dotted all of your holiday “i’s”!  We will examine the steps need to do this in the state of Pennsylvania.

  • To get started, make sure you have the vehicle title.
  • If you’ve lost the title, you’ll need to apply for a replacement before you can gift the auto.
  • PennDOT requires that you work with a notary to transfer a vehicle to your child.
  • You’ll need to take your driver’s license and a recent bank statement, pay stub or utility bill with you to complete the title transfer.
  • The recipient of the gifted vehicle will need to accompany you to the notary.
  • The two of you will need to fill out the applicable sections of the title document to complete the transfer and sign it.
  • Both the gift giver and recipient need to complete an Affidavit of Gift document (form MV-13ST) while at the notary.
  • And with check or money order, the title transfer fee will need to be paid to complete the transaction. 
  • Following the completion of the transaction, your kid has ten days to get the vehicle inspected by a garage or mechanic.
  • Of course, auto insurance in order to legally drive the vehicle is a must-have as well.

Another angle of gifting an automobile is that of charitable giving.  Donating your vehicle to an automotive charity drive as part of your yearend giving is both an admirable thing.  Before giving, make sure you are familiar with the donation requirements of your state.  In Pennsylvania, if you want to donate a vehicle, you must fully own the vehicle and need to have the title to accompany it, or you cannot donate it.  If you’ve misplaced the title, than apply for a replacement before donation.

If you decide to gift or donate a vehicle this Christmas season, make yourself familiar with your states requirements, follow those steps and you can take some of the tedium out of the process.  Tis the season and we wish you ‘happy automobile giving and donating!’

Information for this article was sourced from www.DMVanswers.com.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Winter Driving Tips


             Since we have had a few minor weather inconveniences due to snow and ice, I felt it necessary to review important things to consider when driving in winter conditions.  We already covered getting your car prepared for winter, but it is also important to prepare yourself for everything that winter can throw at you.

             The first thing is preparation. Now is the time to get all the things ready that you should have in your vehicle just in case you have a problem this winter. If you live in an area where winter can strike early and hard, such as around Hazleton as I have experienced, all of these items can prove of great importance, and in extreme cases, could mean the difference between life and death! A winter survival kit should include; a snow shovel (collapsible ones are handy and do not take up much space), a scraper/snow brush, tire chains if you travel in an area that gets a lot of snow, a flashlight with extra batteries, a bag of cat litter, sand or salt incase you get stuck, jumper cables, flares or an emergency triangle, and a bright colored cloth to signal for help.

You should also have a tight-sealing container in which you pack candles, matches or lighter, bottled water and snacks such as energy bars. Some of the most important things you should have in your car during the winter are; mittens or insulated gloves and a ski mask, a sleeping bag or blankets, first aid supplies, and any prescription medications for at least 2 days including diabetic supplies and a fully charged cell phone. I know this list sounds extensive and maybe a bit extreme, but it is much better to be over prepared than to be stranded and possibly not see help for a couple days.  This happened to man from Pine Grove a few years ago, he was on his way home from work on RT 501 just a few miles north a Myerstown and got stuck.  His car sat completely buried on the roadway in a drift for three days until he was rescued.

            When you experience bad weather, it’s also imperative to use common sense. As soon as roads become slick, slow down and increase the distance between you and the vehicle in front of you. If someone insists on following you too closely, pull over when safe and let them pass. One fallacy that many fall victim to is that ‘I have a 4WD so I do not have to worry.’ Yes, 4WD definitely gives you more traction and gets you moving better, but, most 4WDs are heavier vehicles and that extra weight will actually increase braking distances on slick roads. Also, on ice, 4WD actually can be more tricky while under power and stopping. Giving extra room not only allows you more chance to stop, but if the vehicle in front of you or an oncoming vehicle has problems, you have more time and space to take evasive action.

            If you find yourself in a skid, there are a number of things to remember and to consider depending on the situation. If the rear wheels are skidding, take your foot off the gas and steer in the direction that the car is sliding. If the front wheels skid, take your foot off the gas, shift into neutral and allow the car to slow itself and then start to apply light braking and steer in the direction you want to go. Even an expert can sometimes have trouble recovering from a skid. Snow tires can aid you in snow, but they will not make much difference on ice unless they are studded. 

            Should your car break down or you become stuck, there are a few things to remember. If you are able, try to get your car safely off the road surface. Put out flares or the warning triangle to increase your visibility with other drivers. If you are stuck, you should try to shovel your vehicle out, use some abrasive material for traction and see if you can rock yourself free. If you are unable to get free, make a call for help, but do not over use your phone as to retain its charge. You can run your engine for heat about ten minutes every hour, but leave a window open slightly for ventilation and always keep snow clear of your exhaust to prevent carbon monoxide buildup. Use your blankets or sleeping bag to keep warn and ration yourself on your snacks and water so that you do not exhaust your supply. Also remember that you can eat snow for your thirst, but not too much at once as this can lower body temperature. And, make sure it’s not yellow!

            Remember, some prior preparation, and use of common sense may prevent a very dangerous situation from developing!

Monday, December 15, 2014

You Auto Know: Trimming the Costs of Auto Ownership


According to the Automobile Association of America (AAA), the cost of owning a vehicle is on the rise. In its 2013 "Your Driving Costs" study, AAA determined the cost of owning a
Driving a smaller car instead of an
SUV can save drivers a considerable
amount of money over the course of a year.
vehicle is somewhere between $7,000 and $11,000 annually depending on the type of vehicle. That's a substantial amount of money and may leave many motorists looking for ways to reduce the cost of automobile ownership.

Driving is a way of life for many people left with little choice but to keep a vehicle. Thanks to mass transportation, city dwellers might be able to get by without owning a vehicle, but those who live in rural communities or even the suburbs often find that public transportation runs too infrequently or inefficiently to meet their needs. There are ways for those who need their own automobiles to reduce the financial burden of vehicle ownership.

·      Downsize your vehicle. In its study, AAA found that the average cost of owning a vehicle varied considerably depending on the size of that vehicle. That should come as no surprise, as larger vehicles tend to consume more fuel and, as a result, cost more money. But drivers might be surprised to learn just how much less it costs to own a small sedan than it does a four-wheel-drive sport utility vehicle. Small sedans cost the least amount of money to own at $6,967 annually, while four-wheel-drive SUVs cost nearly twice that amount, setting their owners back $11,599 per year. But the most surprising thing from the AAA study might be its findings as to the costs of owing a large sedan. Such vehicles are nearly as expensive as larger SUVs, costing drivers more than $11,000 per year. So drivers who downsize their vehicles to a small sedan will likely save themselves a substantial amount of money over the life of the vehicle.

·      Drive safe and cash in on lower insurance premiums. Though numerous factors, including individuals' driving histories, influence the cost of auto insurance, drivers with clean track records might be able to buck the industry trend and pay less for their auto insurance policy next year than they did this year. In its study, AAA found that the cost of insurance rose by nearly 3 percent in 2012 from the year before. But drivers who can avoid accidents and citations are likely to see their rates decrease from year to year.

·      Buy a used car. Buying a used car may not give buyers the initial excitement of driving off a car lot behind the wheel of a brand new vehicle, but it might prove quite exciting for your bank account. Revisiting a study they conducted in 2001, in 2013 experts at automotive Web site Edmunds.com examined three different financing methods and the cost of each over a six-year period, which the global market intelligence firm Polk estimates is the average car ownership period. The study examined the costs, including interest rates and fees, of leasing or buying a 2013 Honda Accord EX and buying a used 2010 Accord EX. The total cost of buying used after six years was $20,960, while the cost of leasing was $24,768 and the cost of buying new was $28,330. Buying used even saves buyers money when factoring in equity. Of course, leasing saves drivers the cost of maintenance and repairs, which can be considerable when buying used vehicles. However, an older used car won't cost as much to insure as a vehicle that is being leased or financed.

·      Drive less. Of course, the easiest way for automobile owners to trim the costs of owning their vehicles is to drive less. Though vehicle manufacturers have improved fuel economy in recent years, driving less will save money on fuel, the cost of which hinges on a host of factors, including petroleum demand and economic conditions. Such factors may cause a dip in fuel prices one day, but a sharp increase in price the next day. Regardless of those fluctuations in fuel prices, drivers who can cut back on their driving are certain to save money.

The cost of vehicle ownership is on the rise. But motorists who rely on their vehicles can still find ways to save money. 

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Your Auto Know: Giving Your Car "Curb Appeal"


“Curb appeal” is a term often associated with selling a house. Homeowners selling their
A pre-owned car with curb appeal
is far easier to sell than a vehicle that
appears dirty or poorly maintained.
homes want to improve their home’s external appearance so it creates a stronger first impression when prospective buyers first pull up to the curb for an open house or a visit with their realtor.

But while curb appeal is often uttered in real estate parlance, the term also is applicable when selling cars. Private sellers want to make their vehicles look as nice as possible, giving it the kind of curb appeal that impresses potential buyers the moment they see the vehicle. Improving a car’s curb appeal typically doesn’t require as much work as doing the same for a home, but the following are a few ways sellers can improve the look of their vehicles in an attempt to impress prospective buyers.

• Give the car a good wash. The easiest way to improve how a car looks from the outside is to wash and wax it. Sellers should make this part of their vehicle maintenance routine until the car is sold. If you’re driving the car while you’re attempting to sell it, wash and wax the vehicle each week. Always wash the car before a prospective buyer is scheduled to come over and take a look. Spray detailers can be used to give the car some extra sparkle.

• Don’t forget the interior. While a car’s exterior contributes heavily to a buyer’s first impression of the vehicle, the interior also bears heavy influence on any potential buyers. Vacuum the vehicle’s interior, including both the floorboards and the seats, and clean the windows and windshields from the inside. Once the cup-holders have been vacuumed, clean them with a damp cloth to remove any coffee stains or spots where something may have melted. A dirty interior may make buyers question if the rest of the vehicle, especially what’s under the hood, was properly maintained, so be sure to include this easy step as part of your curb appeal routine. Clean the interior as necessary until the car is sold.

• Park the car in the garage. Whether you plan to keep driving the car every day until it’s sold or intend to keep it parked until the right buyer comes along, try to park the car in your garage or in some place where it’s protected from the elements. This prevents any additional damage from harsh weather and ensures a freshly washed car won’t succumb to falling leaves or other debris that may necessitate another washing.

• Clean under the hood. While it’s easy to notice the buildup of dirt and grime on the interior and exterior of the vehicle, it’s not as easy to notice any such buildup under the hood. And while sellers may not see such unsightly buildup even when they open their hoods, buyers almost certainly will. Plastic covers are typically placed over the engine on many late model vehicles, and these covers can accumulate grease and debris over time. A spray cleaner or detailer can remove such buildup to make what’s under the hood as visually impressive as your freshly cleaned interior and exterior.

• Clear out the trunk. No buyer wants to pop the trunk and see your golf clubs, beach chairs and cooler. When selling a car, remove all of your personal items from the trunk. This shows prospective buyers how much trunk space your vehicle is equipped with. In addition, an empty trunk will make the car lighter and, as a result, more smooth to drive, something buyers are sure to notice when they take the car out for a test drive.

The term “curb appeal” is just as applicable to selling a car as it is to selling a home, and sellers can improve their chances of selling their used vehicles dramatically if they take steps to improve the curb appeal of their cars and trucks.

Saturday, December 6, 2014

You Auto Know: Cold Weather Motorcycling


The arrival of cooler temperatures means motorcycle enthusiasts should have a plan in place for their vehicles. Although fall sees many riders pack their bikes into the garage to
Riders should exercise caution when riding
motorcycles in late autumn and winter.
wait out the winter, many others see no reason to quit the great outdoors just because colder weather is on the way.

No matter which path riders take and when they take it, preparation is essential when riding motorcycles. Here are a few pointers for riders to consider once the leaves have started to change color.

Layer up
Layering clothing is a key component of riding a motorcycle in colder temperatures. Many people are not very active on the back of a bike, so they will not generate enough heat on their own. Layering clothing will take the bite out of frosty winds and any precipitation that happens to be falling.

Layer clothing so that you will feel comfortable, maybe even a bit warm when you are just standing around outdoors. A first layer of thermal or fleece is a good idea. Then layer other materials as needed for comfort. Just do not wear so many layers that your mobility is compromised. If layers are not keeping you warm enough, invest in heated clothing.

The outermost layer you wear should be weather- and wind-resistant. Wind chill can quickly sap your energy and cut your ride considerably. Leather clothing will fit the bill in most cases, but a rain suit or some other waterproof material also may be necessary at times.

Leaves
Leaves can be a significant hazard to riders in the fall. Damp leaves can make a slippery mess of roads, particularly on turns and curves.
Avoid all piles of leaves, as you do not know what may be hiding beneath them. Consider wet leaves as dangerous as black ice, as soggy leaves can be just as slippery.

Salt and sand
Road maintenance crews will use sand and salt to keep roads clear when snow and ice forms. Avoid riding on salty roads because the salt can corrode chrome and paint. If you choose to do any winter riding, apply a coat of wax to all parts of the motorcycle before going for a ride. This will help protect it and enable any salt to be easily wiped off after riding.

Standing water
If it rains or snows lightly after an extended period of dryness, oils in the road can come to the surface, making roads quite slick. In addition, stay on the lookout for puddles and other standing water. While motorcycle tires are good for displacing water, they still can hydroplane. Stay focused when riding on wet surfaces.

Foraging animals
One potential hazard riders may not consider is wildlife. Harvested crops reduce easy food sources, and animals may be on the move looking for food. Hunters can push deer out of fields. A collision with a deer can damage a car, never mind a motorcycle. Always use caution in rural areas, particularly at dawn and dusk.

Winterizing
If you choose to store your bike when the weather starts to get cold, remember to put a fuel stabilizer in the tank, fill the tank with gas and hook the battery up to a battery tender. This will ensure the bike is ready to hit the road when the temperatures warm up.




Thursday, November 27, 2014

Happy Thanksgiving from Auto Locator!

From our family to you and yours, we wish you a Happy Thanksgiving!  

We hope you have a safe and joyous time traveling to and fro as you set off to visit family and friends.  

We are thankful now and all year long for your business and loyal support of Auto Locator!


Monday, November 17, 2014

Ask Joe Mechanic: Collision Avoidance Systems, Part II


                  This week we continue collision avoidance systems coverage with information on the Asian and European brands. While information on domestic manufacturer’s systems was sparse at best, and while the same was true of many of the import brands, one stood out by offering a wealth of information.
                  Toyota Motor Corporation's Pre-Collision System (PCS), the first production forward-warning collision system, is used on the manufacturer's Lexus and Toyota brand vehicles. It is a radar-based system that uses forward-facing millimeter-wave radar. When the system determines that a frontal collision is unavoidable, it preemptively tightens the seat belts, removing any slack, and pre-charges the brakes using brake assist to give the driver maximum stopping power instantly when the driver depresses the brake pedal. Toyota launched PCS in February 2003 on the redesigned Japanese domestic market Harrier, and in August 2003 added an automatic partial pre-crash braking system to the Celsior.
                  In September 2003, PCS made its first appearance in North America on the Lexus LS 430, becoming the first such system offered in the US. In 2004, Toyota advanced the system by adding to the radar a single digital camera to improve the accuracy of collision forecast and warning and control levels. It was first available on the Crown Majesta (Avalon). In 2006, the debut of the Lexus LS featured a further advanced version of the PCS; this newer version, dubbed Advanced Pre-Collision System (APCS), added a twin-lens stereo camera located on the windshield and more sensitive radar to detect for the first time smaller "soft" objects such as animals and pedestrians. A near-infrared projector located in the headlights allows the system to work at night. By using the LS's Adaptive Variable Suspension (AVS) and electric Variable Gear Ratio Steering (VGRS), the system can change the suspension damper firmness; steering gear ratios and torque assist to aid the driver's evasive steering measures in a system known as "Collision-Avoidance Steering Support". The Lane Keep Assist system will make automatic steering adjustments to help ensure that the vehicle maintains its lane in case the driver fails to react.
Also unveiled for the 2007 model year, the world's first Driver Monitoring System was introduced on the Lexus LS, using a CCD camera on the steering column. This system monitors the driver's face to determine where the driver is looking. If the driver's head turns away from road and a frontal obstacle is detected, the system will alert the driver using a buzzer, and if necessary, pre-charge the brakes and tighten the safety belts. A later version of the Driver Monitoring System found in 2008 on the Crown monitors the driver's eyes to detect the driver's level of wakefulness. This system is designed to work even if the driver is wearing sunglasses, and at night.
Other advancements to the PCS appearing on the 2007 Lexus LS include the first rearward-facing millimeter-wave radar mounted in the rear bumper. This system adjusts the active head restraints by moving them upward and forward to reduce the risk of whiplash injuries if an imminent rear collision is detected.
                  Toyota began using Night View on the JDM 2002 Toyota Landcruiser Cygnus and on the 2003 Lexus LX 470 available in the US market. In 2008, Toyota added a pedestrian-detection feature on the Crown, which highlights pedestrians and presents them on an LCD display located in front of the driver. The latest Crown also uses a GPS-navigation linked brake assist function. The system, which is designed to determine if the driver is late in decelerating at an approaching stop sign, will then sound an alert and can also pre-charge the brakes to provide optimum braking force if deemed necessary. This system works in certain Japanese cities and requires Japan specific road markings that are detected by a camera.
In March 2009, on the redesigned Crown Majesta, Toyota again further advanced the PCS, adding front-side millimeter-wave radar to detect potential side collisions primarily at intersections or when another vehicle crosses the centerline. The latest version tilts the rear seat upward, placing the passenger in a more ideal crash position if it detects a front or rear impact.
Honda’s Collision Mitigation Brake System (CMBS) was originally introduced as “CMS” in 2003 on the Acura brand in the U.S. and Canada. It utilizes a radar based system to monitor ahead and provide automatic braking if the driver does not react to the instrument panel warning and tightening of the seat belts. Honda had the first production system to offer automatic braking and also incorporate “E pretensioner” electric tensioning of the front seatbelts. When activated, CMBS has three stages, first being audible and visual warnings to brake. In the second stage, the “E pretensioners” activate to encourage action. In stage three, with collision imminent, all seat belt slack is taken up and automatic brake activation takes place to lessen the severity of the crash.  In late 2004, Honda also introduced an Intelligent Night Vision System, which highlights pedestrians in front of the vehicle by using an audible chime and an image displayed on the Heads Up Display.
Mazda uses a system that they have named Smart City Brake Support, which uses lasers to detect vehicles or obstacles ahead of your vehicle. This system will apply braking and cut engine power in case of impending collision, and can usually avoid a collision if the speed differential between vehicles is less than 15 miles per hour.
Nissan and Infiniti offer a laser-based system on U.S. market cars, which pressurizes the braking system for maximum brake force. The system also uses adaptive cruise control sensors for some pre-crash data.  In 2008, Subaru introduced “Eyesight” on home market Legacy’s and Outback’s. This system used two CCD stereo cameras mounted on each side of the rear view mirror. The system also has lane departure warning and adaptive cruise control functions. In 2014 all Legacy, Forester and Impreza models worldwide now have the system and it was further upgraded using cameras which can detect intense color such as brake lights for input. These systems are only available on automatic and CVT transmission vehicles.
Audi’s system (Pre-Sense Plus) works in four phases. In the first phase, the system provides warning of an impending accident, while the hazard warning lights are activated, the side windows and sunroof are closed and the front seat belts are tensioned. In the second phase, the warning is followed by light braking, strong enough to win the driver's attention. The third phase initiates autonomous partial braking at a rate of 3 m/s² (9.8 ft/s²). The fourth phase decelerates the car at 5 m/s² (16.4 ft/s²) followed by automatic deceleration at full braking power, roughly half a second before projected impact.
A second system, called (Pre-Sense Rear), is designed to reduce the consequences of rear-end collisions. The sunroof and windows are closed and seat belts are prepared for impact. The optional memory seats are moved forward to protect the car's occupants. The system uses radar and video sensors and was introduced in 2010 on the 2011 Audi A8.
Fiat’s “City Brake Control” is designed as just that, a low speed crash sensing system designed for under 20 miles per hour. The system uses a “Lidar” laser sensor at the top of the windshield to perform a three step process. First detection activates an ABS pre-charge, second step enhances hydraulic brake assist sensitivity, and finally, automatic braking and audible warnings.
Mercedes' “Pre-Safe” system was unveiled in the fall of 2002 at the Paris Motor Show on the 2003 S-Class. Using ESP sensors to measure steering angle, vehicle yaw and lateral acceleration and Brake Assist (BAS) sensors to detect emergency braking, “Pre-Safe” can tighten the seat belts, adjust seat positions including rear seats (if installed), raise folded rear headrests (if installed) and close the sunroof if it detects a possible collision (including rollover). A later version of the Pre-Safe system was supplemented by an additional function that can close any open windows if necessary.
Pre-Safe Brake, Mercedes-Benz's first forward warning collision system, introduced in the fall of 2005 on the redesigned 2006 W221 S-Class, is cooperating with simultaneously introduced Brake Assist Plus (BAS Plus) and Distronic Plus systems and provides all the functions of previous Pre-Safe system while adding a radar-based system that monitors the traffic situation ahead and provides automatic partial braking (40%, or up to 0.4g deceleration) if the driver does not react to the BAS Plus warnings and the system detects a severe danger of an accident. At the 2009 North American International Auto Show, Mercedes unveiled “Attention Assist” on the 2010 E-class, which, based on 70 parameters, attempts to detect the driver's level of drowsiness based on the driver's driving style. This system does not actually monitor the driver's eyes. Also in 2009, Mercedes added the first fully autonomous braking feature that provides maximum braking force approximately 0.6 seconds before impact.
In 2013, Mercedes updated Pre-Safe on the redesigned W222 S-class. Pre-Safe added pedestrian detection, and a system called Pre-Safe Plus uses a rear radar, which tightens the seat belts, flashes the rear hazard lights and applies braking to minimize collision occupant forces. Pre-safe, also with pyrotechnic pretensioners, will tension the seat belt just prior to the collision.
                  Volvo’s “Collision Warning with Automatic Braking” was introduced on the 2007 S80. The system is operated through a radar/camera fusion and provides a Heads-Up display warning that looks like brake lights. If the driver does not react, the system precharges the ABS and increases brake assist sensitivity to maximize driver braking. Later versions can then perform automatic braking, especially in impending pedestrian impact situations. Volvo now introduced the first cyclist detection system in 2013. All Volvo’s systems are laser based.