Ask Joe Mechanic - Automatic Transmission Servicing

Last week we examined the idea of performing an engine flush and found that in most cases, it is not a recommended procedure. When it comes to transmission flushing, the opposite opinion is true. Most technicians will tell you that a properly performed transmission flush will prolong the life of a transmission, and in some cases, even cure some early signs of a transmission problem such as minor slipping on pullout or sluggish upshifting.

            The first type of transmission maintenance is the basic fluid level check on cars with a dipstick. Most cars need to be checked with the engine warm and running with the transmission in park. The reason for the engine and trans being warm is because transmission fluid expands as the temperature increases. Check either on your dipstick or in the owners’ manual as to the instructions for your vehicle as some cars need to be checked in neutral, and Hondas need to be checked with the engine shut off. There are two important things to observe when you check your fluid. The first, of course is the proper fluid level, which should be at or very close to the full mark. If near or below the add mark, you need to add the appropriate type fluid for your vehicle. Also observe the color and condition of the transmission fluid. It should be a reddish color and it may have some small bits of black particles in it as the clutches wear. If the fluid is brown, smells burned, or has metallic particles in it, these are signs of problems.

            One of the things to know on late model vehicles is that in many cases the manufacturer no longer installs a transmission dipstick, leaving some people to believe that the transmission no longer requires regular maintenance. This is actually quite false. While some vehicles have a sensor, which will indicator trans fluid condition and level on the info display similar to an engine oil indicator, others give no indication. It is true that synthetic trans fluid lasts longer than the older traditional fluids, it still will break down and become contaminated over time and should be changed. Therefore, trans fluid checking and servicing has now basically become a dealer controlled maintenance item unless you are able to locate the fill level plug to check it.

            Ultimately, your owners manual will tell you what transmission servicing is recommended for your vehicle. It will give you a schedule of recommended fluid changes, often between every 24,000 to 36,000 miles. If a transmission flush is recommended, it will probably range between 60,000 and 100,000 miles, while some manufacturers will not recommend flushing at all.

            Opinions vary greatly as to whether or not this process is necessary for proper vehicle maintenance.  Yes, flushing a transmission assists in removing dirt from the torque converter, valve body, trans cooler and cooler lines, but is it really beneficial to an engine?  An article on Wisegeek.com reflects that some automotive professionals report that regular flushing assist with better working and longer last transmissions.  However, the same article notes that many feel that flushes are unnecessary and can damage a vehicle’s valves and seals.

On most vehicles, it is still possible for a mechanically inclined person to do a fluid and filter change, and this is definitely better than no servicing at all. The first thing you should do is to either pull your vehicle up on servicing ramps or jack the vehicle up and place it securely on jack stands. If there is a drain plug, remove the plug and drain into an appropriate drain pan. If no plug is present, or after draining, carefully unbolt and remove the transmission pan, allowing it to drain into your drain pan. Look in the bottom of the pan to see if there is any dirt, sludge or metallic particles. A presence of large amounts of deposits is a sign of developing problems. Clean the inside of the pan, remove the old gasket and set aside. Now remove the filter, more fluid should now drain out of the valve body, and dispose of the old filter. Install a new filter, a new gasket and reinstall the pan. Estimate how many quarts of fluid that you have drained and add slightly less than that amount. Lower the car to the ground, start the engine and run until warm. Move the shift selector through all positions and place back in park. Check your fluid and add as necessary to bring up to the proper level. Drive the car about fifteen minutes and then recheck and add fluid if needed. While this process does not remove all the fluid from the transmission, it does serve as a great benefit.

When using a transmission flushing machine, more of the old fluid is removed, and the overall transmission system is cleaned. This means that there is less dirt and old fluid to contaminate and weaken the new fluid. In some cases, a special transmission flushing chemical is added to help clean the system before the new transmission fluid is added. The fresh transmission fluid means that the transmission should run cooler and more efficiently, thereby prolonging the life of the transmission.

The only way a transmission flushing machine will damage your transmission is if a high pressure back-flush type machine is used to force fluid backward through the transmission. This type of flushing system is hardly used anymore. In most cases, a transmission flush does not rely on pressure to flush out the residue of the old fluid. Instead, the transmission's pump or a machine is used to gently circulate the new fluid through the system either by connecting directly to the transmission pump or into the transmission cooler lines and follows its normal path of circulation. This means that rather than applying pressure that could damage the transmission, simple replacement is used to rid the system of most of the old fluid.

There are two slight drawbacks to the systems that connect to the transmission cooler lines. First, is that unlike the normal transmission circulation path, this pushes all the fluid through the lower pressure regulator which controls the internal system of the transmission, it will not direct fluid through the higher pressure regulator to the torque convertor. This means that there will still be some old fluid left in the system which will somewhat dilute the new fluid. The other issue is that by not removing the pan, the filter will not get changed unless you request it, and the technician will not have the opportunity to examine the inside of the pan.

In general, periodic transmission flushes are a good idea, no matter which of the two current types of machines is used. But, there is one time that you definitely should not do a transmission flush. If the fluid has a severely burned smell or there is a collection of metallic particles on the dipstick, your transmission has internal part damage and is probably very close to failing. Your transmission just has not figured out that it should die yet, but if you flush it, it will most likely fail almost immediately. Save your money for a replacement transmission, because at some time, probably in the near future, you will need one. This is one of the major reasons why you would want a transmission flush to be performed by a qualified professional.

Portions of this article were sourced from the Transmission Flushing article featured on www.wisegeek.com. 

Ask Joe Mechanic - Engine Flushing

A hotly debated subject is engine flushing and whether it is beneficial or it is actually harmful to an engine. No two technicians seem to agree as to whether you should perform this service on your vehicle.    

The process of engine flushing is used to clean sludge, dirt and deposits that build up in the internal parts of an engine, especially inside the valve cover and the oil pan over time. The main purpose of performing an engine flush is to try to extend the life of the engine. By flushing an engine periodically, the inside of the engine will hopefully stay relatively clean and will operate more efficiently. 

The method used to flush an engine is somewhat like what is used to flush a transmission. When flushing a transmission, the fluid is pushed through the transmission to carry the old fluid and dirt and deposits out of the transmission by way of the drain plug. With engine flushing, a cleaning chemical is added to the engine oil and circulates through the lubrication system. The chemicals eat away at the deposits, eventually making their way into the oil pan, where they collect in the bottom of the pan to allow it to be drained.

While the theory behind flushing an engine seems like something that should be done on a periodic basis, there is much disagreement as to whether it is smart and effective to do. While it is general knowledge that it can be beneficial in low mileage vehicles that have not had proper maintenance performed, something that is often found to happen in lease vehicles where the leasee feels that it is not my vehicle and I am giving it back in two or three years, so why worry about changing oil and spending that extra money. Many technicians question whether it is a good idea in higher mileage vehicles. There is the chance in an older engine that the buildup of sludge may be more than the chemicals in the flush can properly loosen and remove, which could worsen a bad situation. Another fear is that the sludge will lie in the pan and clog the oil pump pickup screen and cause oil starvation. Instead of performing an engine flush, it is much more effective to disassemble and clean the engine as long as it is in good operating condition, even though this is more expensive, or else do a complete engine rebuild if it is determined that the engine is not in good condition. 

Because there is such a difference of opinion whether to do an engine flush or not, not every garage offers or recommends this service. Some facilities that used to do engine flushes, including a dealer where I used to work, no longer do so. Even in shops that do engine flushes, they will generally have a technician check the condition of the engine before they will do the flush. 

It is important to remember that there is no substitute for proper maintenance. If anything, an engine flush should be considered as a way to supplement the proper care of the engine and thereby help to prolong its life. Also, if you do choose to perform this service, I recommend having a professional do it and seek their advice first, I do not consider this a wise do it yourself procedure.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Improving Fuel Economy Part 3

This week we will examine driving habits that can affect your fuel economy. One of the first ways that you can increase your fuel economy is to use your cruise control. The engine electronics system can make a smoother throttle transition then the majority of drivers are able to do, thereby increasing their mileage.

            Slow down. The faster you move, the harder your engine has to work to push through the wind. Speeding can reduce fuel efficiency by up to 33 percent.  Factors other than air resistance decrease fuel economy below about 60 mph (97 km/h), so fuel economy is not a reason to go slower, but fuel economy decreases rapidly above that speed.

            Avoid braking wherever possible. Braking wastes energy from fuel that you have already burned, and accelerating after braking consumes more fuel than driving at a constant speed. On city streets watch ahead and coast when you see a red light or traffic jam ahead.

            Avoid excessive idling. Idling a vehicle wastes a significant amount of fuel. The best way to warm up a vehicle is to drive it slowly until it reaches proper operating temperature. In cold weather warm the car engine no more than 30 seconds. This period of time is sufficient to ensure that the engine is properly lubricated for driving. Generally, if you can avoid 10 seconds of idling you will save gas by turning the engine off and restarting. However, starting an engine too often can lead to excessive wear and tear on the starter motor and wiring.

            Find your car's "sweet speed".  Some cars get better mileage at specific speeds, usually 50 mph (80 km/h). Your car's "sweet speed" is the minimum speed at which the car is running in its highest gear (watch for rpm drops as you accelerate to determine when your transmission is shifting into higher gears). For example, most Jeep Cherokees are best at 55 mph (89 km/h), and Toyota 4Runners are best at about 50 mph (80 km/h). Find your vehicle's "sweet speed" and pick your roads accordingly.

            If your car has an automatic transmission with overdrive, make sure you enable overdrive except when towing very heavy trailers. Overdrive is by default enabled on the "D" on most shifters. Several cars have buttons on the shifter which allow you to turn off the overdrive gear. Don't turn it off except in specific circumstances it may be needed such as for engine braking downhill or failure to proceed uphill smoothly in overdrive. Overdrive saves you gas mileage at higher speeds by using a lower ratio from engine speed to wheel speed - this places the engine at a more efficient operating point (by reducing throttling losses, etc).

            Learn to watch and predict traffic signals. In city driving, study at what speed you can make multiple traffic lights, and slow down before a light so you may not have to stop completely.  Stop-and-go driving is wasteful.  Don't circle in a parking lot, and keep well away from the store fronts. Look for a spot in the empty half of the parking lot. Many people spend significant time idling and creeping, waiting for a "close spot" to open up.

            Maintain a safe following distance! Don't stick to the bumper of the car directly in front of you. You will brake more and accelerate more to keep that unnecessary and dangerous narrow gap. Relax. Hang back a bit. You're still traveling at the same speed as the car ahead of you even if you're 100 yards (91.4 m) behind. This also gives you a lot more room to play with when you are timing lights. When he slams on his brakes, you can coast down and see if the light quick-changes green again (some do). You might even coast by his car as the light turns green and he has to accelerate from a dead stop.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Improving Fuel Economy Part 2

The second set of ways to save fuel is called fuel savings. First, keep your tank between one quarter and three quarters full. Filling to the top on a large vehicle can add ten gallons more fuel which transmits to 60 pounds of extra weight. Running the tank below one quarter puts extra strain on the electric fuel pump which demands more current, and also in winter present the opportunity for condensation to form in the tank and result in a gas line freeze up.

            Buy quality fuel. No two fuels are the same, and while 'discount' brand fuel may save you a few cents/ Gal, it can contain a higher percentage of ethanol, which burns at a faster rate. Compare the mileage between fuel companies and see what is best for your car.

                  Use synthetic oil in your car to save an average of five percent of gas. Remember to change it according to your vehicle manufacturers recommendations for any oil. Extending oil change intervals can be harmful to the life of your engine and the fuel-saving benefits are lost, as oil gets dirty. If you can't use synthetic, choose the lightest oil possible, 5W-30 rather than 15W-50. If you do not use synthetic oil, consider a synthetic oil additive which can reduce engine friction.

                  Try to avoid using the air conditioner in stop-and-go city driving as it causes the engine to work hard and consume more fuel. However, studies show that at highway speeds cars get somewhat better mileage with the AC on and the windows rolled up. The drag caused by rolled down windows at high speed reduces fuel efficiency more than the AC.

                  If you're trying to find a direct way to control the amount of gas you are using, monitor how hard your engine is working is key. A/C, acceleration, and speed all, of course, affect work but these are not direct indicators. If your car is equipped with a tachometer, try monitoring the RPMs (or revolutions per minute) your engine is running at. It's like monitoring your pulse to find out how hard your heart is working. You will find that there are RPM ranges which are ideal for your car and others that are not. If you find the engine is running at above 3000 RPMs, it's possible you're accelerating at an unnecessarily a low gear. So, ease off the pedal and let the engine build up a higher speed at a lower RPM.  The lower average RPM you travel the lower your work and this directly determines your gas mileage.

                  We will cover the third group, driving habits, next week as there are many ways driving habits affect fuel mileage. As far as trip planning, keep lists of needs that will require a trip and try to accomplish multiple objectives with each. This will not increase your fuel mileage (the number of miles your car moves for each gallon of gas), but it will help you drive less (which, in turn, means you use less gas).

                  Plan your route carefully. Take the route with the fewest stops and turns and least traffic. Take highways in preference to city streets when possible. Also, maintain a log over time of how many miles you go (the main odometer) and how much gas you put in (from the gas pump, including fractions). This can tell you if your mileage drops and that there may be a problem with your vehicle.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Increasing Fuel Economy Part 1

I realize that with the recent drop in gasoline prices that we have seen, conserving fuel is not something that is seriously on our minds. Even though prices are at about a six year low, it is still important that we should always try to conserve as much fuel as possible. It still keeps extra money in our pockets, but more importantly, it is good for the environment and it is good for our vehicles.

            There are four main groups of ways to conserve gas. First is the car we drive and how we take care of it. Secondly we can look at ways to save on the cost of fuel. Third is to examine our personal driving habits. And fourth is planning our trips. This week we will look at the first and next week we will try to look at the other three.

            Properly inflated tires can reduce fuel consumption by up to 3%. Your tires also lose about 1 PSI per month, and when the tires are cold (e.g., in the winter), their pressure will decrease due to the thermal contraction of the air. It is recommended to check tires at least monthly, preferably weekly. Having properly inflated tires will also help you avoid uneven wear on the tread. Recommended inflation pressures are for cold tires; put about 3 PSI more in if the tires have been driven on awhile. Inflate to the pressure recommended by the car manufacturer, not the maximum stamped on the tire.

            A properly tuned engine maximizes power and can greatly enhance fuel efficiency. Beware, though, that many tuners will disable efficiency measures when tuning for power. When doing a tune up, always check the air filter as a dirty filter will reduce fuel economy, or make the engine stall when idling. Just like mowing dusty grass, driving dusty dirt roads will clog the air filter: avoid dust clouds. Also, replace the fuel filter according to the car manufacturer's recommended schedule. This will go a long way to enhancing fuel efficiency.

            Get the lightest car that will serve your needs. Weight is one of the biggest causes for loss of kinetic energy in non-hybrid cars. If you're not shopping for cars, then take any extra weight off of the one you're already driving. If seats that you don't use can be removed such as in a van or minivan, take them out. If you use your trunk as a storage space for heavy things, find another place for them.  An extra 100 pounds of weight increases fuel consumption by 1-2%. (Weight is most important in stop-and-go driving.  In almost exclusively highway driving, it matters little: once the car is up to speed, it need only push air out of the way.) Don't remove things from the car that you need frequently; instead, make sure these are in the car and readily accessible because wasted trips to retrieve or replace them will be much worse than a little lower mileage.

            Another way to conserve gas is to use the tire width that the tire manufacturer recommends.  Narrow tires have less frontal area, thus reducing aerodynamic drag. Remember, however, that narrow tires have less traction as well (which is why race cars have such wide tires). Do not get a tire that is incompatible with your wheels, and do not get smaller wheels unless your manufacturer approves.  Select low-rolling-resistance compound tires. These can increase fuel economy by a few percent. (The difference is not startling or a substitute for proper inflation. It would be wasteful to replace the former tires with these before they are worn out.)

            On fuel-injected cars, make sure the oxygen sensors, engine emissions system, and evaporative emissions control systems are in good shape. Often the "check engine light" coming on is an indication that there is a problem with one of these components. A damaged oxygen sensor may cause your car to have too rich of a fuel mixture, decreasing your fuel mileage by 20% or more.

Ask Joe Mechanic: Winter Car Washing

            If you think that car washing is just for sunny summer days, you had best think again. It is actually even more important to do regular car washing in the winter.

            People have different preferences when it comes to car washing. Some people just take their car to the local car spa and have them do the job for them. Others take their car to an automatic drive-thru to get the job done quickly and at low cost.  However, others really like to take their time and hand wash and primp and polish their pride and joy. While this may be fun to do on a nice sunny summer day, when it is cold and blustery, that can quickly zap anyone’s ambition and make it a painstaking and even painful job. Also, environmental experts tend to frown on washing in your driveway because of the wastewater and chemical-cleaning agents going into the storm sewer system. Commercial car washes recycle and filter their water.

            Preventative car care is especially important when the cold weather sets in. The road additives such as salt, liquid brine and sand or cinders can wreak havoc on a car’s finish, corrode the undercarriage and potentially rust the wheel wells. Keeping the car clean and waxed can protect the finish and help protect from scratches and marring from winter road debris.

          Car corrosion damage is especially common during the winter months. Prevention remains the best solution to corrosion, and a car wash is one of the best preventive measures and costs a minimal amount of money and little physical effort. If you are planning to wash your car during the winter, it is best to select a day when the temperature is at least a few degrees above freezing if possible. If you feel you must wash your car and it is below freezing, try to park your car in a garage afterwards or at least drive the car for a few minutes to remove excess moisture. And, try to avoid blasting water directly into the door and trunk locks to prevent them from freezing.

Automatic car washes are a convenient way to clean a vehicle in the winter. The one downside is that these facilities tend to use harsh chemicals to eat through the debris. With brush type systems, this can result in swirl patterns or scratches to your car’s finish. Also, hard water can tend to leave spots on a car finish. An alternative is to head to one of the local do-it-yourself car washes.  Bring your own cleaning products so that you have a high-pressure water supply to help you get the job done quickly and right. Even if you cannot do the kind of cleaning job you like to do when the weather is warmer, rinsing the dirt and grime from your car, and especially spaying the wheel wells, rocker panels and the underside of our vehicle can go a long way toward preventing destructive corrosion.

Washing your car in winter is not something that most people enjoy, but it is a good way to help keep your car looking good for a long time.

This week’s recalls:

2342 2013-2014 Polaris Victory Cross Country, Cross Roads, Hammer Eight Ball, High Ball, Jackpot, Vegas Eight Ball, 2014 Victory Cross Country Eight Ball, Cross Roads Eight Ball, Ness Cross Country, 2015 Victory Gunner, and 2013 Victory Hardball motorcycles. The fuel pump in the affected motorcycles may have been incorrectly crimped during manufacturing, which may result in the fuel pump seizing.

198,900 2008-2011 Subaru Impreza, 2008-2014 WRX and STI, and 2009-2013 Forester vehicles, currently, or formerly, registered in Connecticut, Delaware, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, West Virginia, Wisconsin and the District of Columbia that were remedied under recall 14V-311 prior to December 23, 2014. The brake lines may experience brake line corrosion due to salt water splashing on the brake lines through a gap in the fuel tank protector. Brake fluid may leak due to the brake line corrosion and may result in longer distances being required to slow or stop the vehicle, increasing the risk of a crash.

159 Forest River 2015 Vibe VBT272BHS travel trailers manufactured July 15, 2014, to December 19, 2014. These trailers may have incorrect tire size and tire pressure information on the Federal Certification and Tire labels. The information on the label lists the installed tires as ST225/75R15/C inflated to 50 PSI, however the tires that are actually mounted on the trailer are ST225/75R15/D inflated to 65 PSI. As such, these trailers fail to comply with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 110, "Tire Selection and Rims and Motor Home/Recreation Vehicle Trailer Load Carrying Capacity Information for Motor Vehicles with a GVWR of 4,536 Kilograms (10,000 Pounds) or Less." If the tires are replaced with the tires indicated on the label, the tires may be insufficient to carry the load and a tire blow out may result, increasing the risk of a crash.

773 2012-2014 Champion American Crusader, Challenger, Crusader, CTS-FE, CTS-RE, Defender, EZ-Street, HC American, HCAC, LF Transport, M1235, Platinum Shuttle, Stacked Rail, and Federal Coach Premier, and Spirit transit buses manufactured January 1, 2012, to October 1, 2014, equipped with certain triangle warning signs manufactured by Imperial Supplies, LLC. Test reports indicate that the triangle warning signs, labeled C&J, may reflect an inadequate amount of light. As such, these triangle warning kits fail to comply with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 125, "Warning devices." Warning triangles that do not properly reflect light may fail to warn others that a vehicle is parked, increasing the risk of a crash.

3924 2014-2015 Toyota 4Runner, Tacoma, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser, RAV4, Scion FRS, and XB vehicles. The affected vehicles may have accessories installed by SET, such as running boards or other items, that were incorrectly installed. The accessory attaching fasteners were not tightened with the proper torque, possibly causing the accessory to detach from the vehicle. Accessories that detach from a vehicle may result in a vehicle crash and/or personal injury.

If you own one of these vehicles, contact your dealer for further instructions on what to do.

Ask Joe Mechanic: Increase Your Winter Visibility

Visibility is an essential component of automotive safety. According to the United States Department of Transportation's Federal Highway Administration, inability to clearly see the road, other motorists and potential obstacles is a leading contributor to automotive accidents and injury.

Approximately half of all fatalities due to motor vehicle crashes occur at night, even though the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration notes that traffic volume is substantially less at night. Lack of visibility, which may result from a dirty windshield or inclement weather, can render pavement markings nearly invisible or throw off drivers' senses of direction.

Poor visibility can be hazardous, and drivers must take steps to ensure they have maximum visibility at all times, whether it's day or night or if the weather is poor or fair.

One of the best ways to ensure maximum visibility is to keep your windshield clean. Not all windshield washer fluids and wipers are created equally. For example, some washer fluids are ineffective in freezing temperatures. Frozen washer fluid can cause a complete blockage of the system and greatly impair visibility.

As anyone who has driven on snowy and/or salty roads can attest, such substances can quickly gather on windshields, where they crust up and impede visibility. A windshield cleaning system that is not working effectively is a recipe for an accident.

Always read the product label before purchasing washer fluid. Summer blends are only effective when temperatures remain above 32 F. When the mercury dips below freezing, these fluids freeze up. Winter formulas should contain an antifreeze solution that will lower the freezing point of the liquid. Many such fluids employ methanol to not only prevent freezing but also to melt frost and light accumulations of ice.

Drivers also may be able to supplement their washer fluids with common items to increase durability during extreme cold snaps. Mix 99 percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol into the washer fluid to prevent it from freezing. Otherwise, the washer fluid brand may have specific instructions for mixing for use in areas where the temperature regularly dips below freezing.

Combine these visibility tips with the inclement weather driving recommendations we shared a few weeks ago and you’re sure to remove much of the stress from your winter time commutes and road trips.

This week’s recalls:
2011-2012 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT, Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado HD, Silverado LD, Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Sierra LD, Sierra HD, Yukon, Yukon XL The Problem: An improperly sized ignition lock actuator can make it difficult to turn the key, which could become stuck in the “start” position. Through either a “jarring event” or a cool interior temperature, the ignition lock could move into the “accessory” position. The result is loss of engine power, power steering, and power braking, and deactivated airbag deployment. The Fix: Dealers will inspect vehicles and if necessary replace the faulty ignition lock component at no cost to owners.

2015 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 and GMC Sierra 1500 The Problem: Rear axle shafts in these vehicles may have been improperly heat-treated, resulting in possible fracture without warning. The rear wheel could potentially separate from the axle shaft. The Fix: GM dealers will inspect rear axle shafts and replace faulty parts for free.

2015 Chevrolet Silverado HD and GMC Sierra HD The Problem: Hose clamps for the fuel tank in these diesel-powered pickups may not have been properly tightened by assembly plant personnel, increasing the risk of a fuel leak and possible fire. The Fix: Dealers will inspect and if necessary tighten the fuel tank hose clamp in question, free of charge.

2014 Ford Escape and 2015 Lincoln MKC The Problem: Nickel-plating on the fuel pumps of these crossovers may cause seizing fuel pumps, which could induce a vehicle stall or failure to start. The Fix: Dealers will inspect and if necessary replace the fuel delivery module.

2015 Lincoln MKC The Problem: Because of the push-button ignition switch’s close proximity to other buttons on the center control stack, people are accidentally shutting off the engine while driving. The Fix: Dealers will replace and reprogram gearshift and powertrain control modules, replacing a center console panel with a new panel that relocates the push-button start control.

Ask Joe Mechanic: FAQs for the Mechanic

Have you ever wondered which questions your mechanic hears most frequently in a day or week of working in a garage?  Are you curious if you’ve asked one of those FAQs?  We’ve done a little digging and have compiled a list of what gets asked most often at an auto service center.

• How much is it going to cost?
• Will my warranty cover it?
• How soon can I get my vehicle back?
• Do I really need to have the work done to my auto?
• Do you think it could be... or that…?
• What’s causing that noise?
• Will my car ever be the same?
• How closely should I stick to the recommended maintenance or my vehicle?
• When the “check engine” light turns on, what should I do?
• How often should I change my oil?
• How frequently do my spark plugs need to be changed?
• How do I know if my car is still under warranty?
• Do you take walk-in customers?
• Why should I choose you for the service my car needs?
• How long will it take you to get to my car?
• Is your work on my vehicle guaranteed?

So, how did you stack up against the FAQs and how often do you find yourself asking these questions?  We’d love to hear your experience relating to this week’s column. Feel free to share whether or not you ask these questions regularly of your mechanic and if you’ve been pleased or satisfied with the answers you’ve received.  Visit us on Facebook (www.facebook.com/autolocator) or tweet us on Twitter (www.twitter.com/auto_locator) with your thoughts and feedback.

Information for this article was sourced from mechanictogo.com, autos.com and mymechanicsf.com.  Image sourced from wikipedia.org. 

This Week’s Recalls:

Hyundai Motor America (Hyundai) is recalling certain 1.6 liter model year 2015 Sonata vehicles manufactured August 29, 2014, to October 28, 2014. The affected vehicles may have been assembled with an incorrect left axle shaft which may result in the shaft separating from the transaxle differential.  If the left axle shaft separates from the transaxle, the vehicle may stop moving, increasing the risk of a crash. Additionally, a separated axle shaft may allow the vehicle to roll away as the driver and other occupants exit the vehicle or anytime thereafter. A vehicle rollaway increases the risk of injury to exiting occupants and bystanders.

American Honda Motor Co. (Honda) is recalling certain model year 2015 Crosstour 4 Cylinder vehicles manufactured October 1, 2014, to November 4, 2014, Crosstour V6 2WD vehicles manufactured September 30, 2014, to November 13, 2014, and Crosstour V6 4WD vehicles manufactured September 30, 2014, to November 18, 2014. The inflator tube for the side curtain air bag may have been incorrectly manufactured.  If the side curtain air bag does not properly inflate, it can affect the performance of the air bag in the event of a vehicle crash, increasing the risk of occupant injury.

BMW of North America, LLC (BMW) is recalling certain model year 2014-2015 MINI Cooper Hardtop 2 Door, and Cooper S Hardtop 2 Door vehicles manufactured January 6, 2014, to October 17, 2014. During service appointments, dealers may have inadvertently reprogrammed the transmission control unit with software that may allow drivers to exit the vehicle when the transmission is not in Park. As such, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) No. 114, "Theft Protection and Rollaway Prevention."  If the driver exits the vehicle without the transmission being in Park, the vehicle could roll away as the driver and other occupants exit the vehicle or anytime thereafter. A vehicle rollaway increases the risk of injury to exiting occupants and bystanders.

American Honda Motor Co. (Honda) is recalling certain model year 2014 Acura RLX vehicles manufactured November 22, 2012, to January 30, 2014, 2015 Acura RLX vehicles manufactured June 4, 2014, to November 18, 2014, and 2014 Acura RLX Hybrid vehicles manufactured November 5, 2013, to July 25, 2014. An aluminum film applied to the inner reflector of the headlight may experience adhesion issues causing the film to delaminate. Thus, these vehicles fail to comply with the requirements of Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) No. 108, "Lamps, reflective devices, and associated equipment."  Delamination of the aluminum film may diminish output of the headlight, increasing the risk of a vehicle crash.

Farber Specialty Vehicles (Farber) is recalling certain model year 2005-2008 Winnebago WFG38S vehicles manufactured January 1, 2008, to December 24, 2009 equipped with certain model S2005, S2010, S5005, S5010, S5505, and S5510 wheelchair lifts manufactured by Ricon Corporation. The platform side plate of the affected wheelchair lifts may crack.  If the platform side plates crack, the lift platform can separate from the lift and come to rest against the vehicle's lift door. When the doors are opened, the platform may fall out, increasing the risk of injury to the lift operator.

Chrysler Group LLC (Chrysler) is recalling certain model year 2004-2007 Dodge Ram 1500 and Durango, 2005-2007 Dodge Ram 2500, Charger, Magnum, Dakota, Chrysler 300, 300C, SRT8, 2006-2007 Dodge Ram 3500 and Mitsubishi Raider, and 2007 Chrysler Aspen. Upon deployment of the driver side frontal air bag, excessive internal pressure may cause the inflator to rupture.  In the event of a crash necessitating deployment of the driver side frontal air bag, the inflator could rupture with metal fragments striking and potentially seriously injuring the vehicle occupants.

You Auto Know: Average Cost of Fuel

Many of us are used to driving in an era where prices at the pump have soared, dropped, ebbed and flowed depending
on the week, holiday and the like.  This week we're encouraged to read a bit of news from AAA that the Nationwide average cost of fuel has dropped to $2.32 per gallon, with many locations seeing the price per gallon as low as $1.99.  

To see how your state fairs compared to the other 48, visit the AAA fuel gauge site! 

So, what's the cheapest you remember ever paying for a tank of gas (or diesel) or even the price per gallon?  Tell us about your earliest memories of fueling up!

Ask Joe Mechanic - Winter Driving Tips

             Since we have had a few minor weather inconveniences due to snow and ice, I felt it necessary to review important things to consider when driving in winter conditions.  We already covered getting your car prepared for winter, but it is also important to prepare yourself for everything that winter can throw at you.

             The first thing is preparation. Now is the time to get all the things ready that you should have in your vehicle just in case you have a problem this winter. If you live in an area where winter can strike early and hard, such as around Hazleton as I have experienced, all of these items can prove of great importance, and in extreme cases, could mean the difference between life and death! A winter survival kit should include; a snow shovel (collapsible ones are handy and do not take up much space), a scraper/snow brush, tire chains if you travel in an area that gets a lot of snow, a flashlight with extra batteries, a bag of cat litter, sand or salt incase you get stuck, jumper cables, flares or an emergency triangle, and a bright colored cloth to signal for help.

You should also have a tight-sealing container in which you pack candles, matches or lighter, bottled water and snacks such as energy bars. Some of the most important things you should have in your car during the winter are; mittens or insulated gloves and a ski mask, a sleeping bag or blankets, first aid supplies, and any prescription medications for at least 2 days including diabetic supplies and a fully charged cell phone. I know this list sounds extensive and maybe a bit extreme, but it is much better to be over prepared than to be stranded and possibly not see help for a couple days.  This happened to man from Pine Grove a few years ago, he was on his way home from work on RT 501 just a few miles north a Myerstown and got stuck.  His car sat completely buried on the roadway in a drift for three days until he was rescued.

            When you experience bad weather, it’s also imperative to use common sense. As soon as roads become slick, slow down and increase the distance between you and the vehicle in front of you. If someone insists on following you too closely, pull over when safe and let them pass. One fallacy that many fall victim to is that ‘I have a 4WD so I do not have to worry.’ Yes, 4WD definitely gives you more traction and gets you moving better, but, most 4WDs are heavier vehicles and that extra weight will actually increase braking distances on slick roads. Also, on ice, 4WD actually can be more tricky while under power and stopping. Giving extra room not only allows you more chance to stop, but if the vehicle in front of you or an oncoming vehicle has problems, you have more time and space to take evasive action.

            If you find yourself in a skid, there are a number of things to remember and to consider depending on the situation. If the rear wheels are skidding, take your foot off the gas and steer in the direction that the car is sliding. If the front wheels skid, take your foot off the gas, shift into neutral and allow the car to slow itself and then start to apply light braking and steer in the direction you want to go. Even an expert can sometimes have trouble recovering from a skid. Snow tires can aid you in snow, but they will not make much difference on ice unless they are studded. 

            Should your car break down or you become stuck, there are a few things to remember. If you are able, try to get your car safely off the road surface. Put out flares or the warning triangle to increase your visibility with other drivers. If you are stuck, you should try to shovel your vehicle out, use some abrasive material for traction and see if you can rock yourself free. If you are unable to get free, make a call for help, but do not over use your phone as to retain its charge. You can run your engine for heat about ten minutes every hour, but leave a window open slightly for ventilation and always keep snow clear of your exhaust to prevent carbon monoxide buildup. Use your blankets or sleeping bag to keep warn and ration yourself on your snacks and water so that you do not exhaust your supply. Also remember that you can eat snow for your thirst, but not too much at once as this can lower body temperature. And, make sure it’s not yellow!

            Remember, some prior preparation, and use of common sense may prevent a very dangerous situation from developing!

You Auto Know: Trimming the Costs of Auto Ownership

According to the Automobile Association of America (AAA), the cost of owning a vehicle is on the rise. In its 2013 "Your Driving Costs" study, AAA determined the cost of owning a

Driving a smaller car instead of an
SUV can save drivers a considerable
amount of money over the course of a year.

vehicle is somewhere between $7,000 and $11,000 annually depending on the type of vehicle. That's a substantial amount of money and may leave many motorists looking for ways to reduce the cost of automobile ownership.

Driving is a way of life for many people left with little choice but to keep a vehicle. Thanks to mass transportation, city dwellers might be able to get by without owning a vehicle, but those who live in rural communities or even the suburbs often find that public transportation runs too infrequently or inefficiently to meet their needs. There are ways for those who need their own automobiles to reduce the financial burden of vehicle ownership.

·      Downsize your vehicle. In its study, AAA found that the average cost of owning a vehicle varied considerably depending on the size of that vehicle. That should come as no surprise, as larger vehicles tend to consume more fuel and, as a result, cost more money. But drivers might be surprised to learn just how much less it costs to own a small sedan than it does a four-wheel-drive sport utility vehicle. Small sedans cost the least amount of money to own at $6,967 annually, while four-wheel-drive SUVs cost nearly twice that amount, setting their owners back $11,599 per year. But the most surprising thing from the AAA study might be its findings as to the costs of owing a large sedan. Such vehicles are nearly as expensive as larger SUVs, costing drivers more than $11,000 per year. So drivers who downsize their vehicles to a small sedan will likely save themselves a substantial amount of money over the life of the vehicle.

·      Drive safe and cash in on lower insurance premiums. Though numerous factors, including individuals' driving histories, influence the cost of auto insurance, drivers with clean track records might be able to buck the industry trend and pay less for their auto insurance policy next year than they did this year. In its study, AAA found that the cost of insurance rose by nearly 3 percent in 2012 from the year before. But drivers who can avoid accidents and citations are likely to see their rates decrease from year to year.

·      Buy a used car. Buying a used car may not give buyers the initial excitement of driving off a car lot behind the wheel of a brand new vehicle, but it might prove quite exciting for your bank account. Revisiting a study they conducted in 2001, in 2013 experts at automotive Web site Edmunds.com examined three different financing methods and the cost of each over a six-year period, which the global market intelligence firm Polk estimates is the average car ownership period. The study examined the costs, including interest rates and fees, of leasing or buying a 2013 Honda Accord EX and buying a used 2010 Accord EX. The total cost of buying used after six years was $20,960, while the cost of leasing was $24,768 and the cost of buying new was $28,330. Buying used even saves buyers money when factoring in equity. Of course, leasing saves drivers the cost of maintenance and repairs, which can be considerable when buying used vehicles. However, an older used car won't cost as much to insure as a vehicle that is being leased or financed.

·      Drive less. Of course, the easiest way for automobile owners to trim the costs of owning their vehicles is to drive less. Though vehicle manufacturers have improved fuel economy in recent years, driving less will save money on fuel, the cost of which hinges on a host of factors, including petroleum demand and economic conditions. Such factors may cause a dip in fuel prices one day, but a sharp increase in price the next day. Regardless of those fluctuations in fuel prices, drivers who can cut back on their driving are certain to save money.

The cost of vehicle ownership is on the rise. But motorists who rely on their vehicles can still find ways to save money. 

Your Auto Know: Giving Your Car "Curb Appeal"

“Curb appeal” is a term often associated with selling a house. Homeowners selling their

A pre-owned car with curb appeal
is far easier to sell than a vehicle that
appears dirty or poorly maintained.

homes want to improve their home’s external appearance so it creates a stronger first impression when prospective buyers first pull up to the curb for an open house or a visit with their realtor.

But while curb appeal is often uttered in real estate parlance, the term also is applicable when selling cars. Private sellers want to make their vehicles look as nice as possible, giving it the kind of curb appeal that impresses potential buyers the moment they see the vehicle. Improving a car’s curb appeal typically doesn’t require as much work as doing the same for a home, but the following are a few ways sellers can improve the look of their vehicles in an attempt to impress prospective buyers.

• Give the car a good wash. The easiest way to improve how a car looks from the outside is to wash and wax it. Sellers should make this part of their vehicle maintenance routine until the car is sold. If you’re driving the car while you’re attempting to sell it, wash and wax the vehicle each week. Always wash the car before a prospective buyer is scheduled to come over and take a look. Spray detailers can be used to give the car some extra sparkle.

• Don’t forget the interior. While a car’s exterior contributes heavily to a buyer’s first impression of the vehicle, the interior also bears heavy influence on any potential buyers. Vacuum the vehicle’s interior, including both the floorboards and the seats, and clean the windows and windshields from the inside. Once the cup-holders have been vacuumed, clean them with a damp cloth to remove any coffee stains or spots where something may have melted. A dirty interior may make buyers question if the rest of the vehicle, especially what’s under the hood, was properly maintained, so be sure to include this easy step as part of your curb appeal routine. Clean the interior as necessary until the car is sold.

• Park the car in the garage. Whether you plan to keep driving the car every day until it’s sold or intend to keep it parked until the right buyer comes along, try to park the car in your garage or in some place where it’s protected from the elements. This prevents any additional damage from harsh weather and ensures a freshly washed car won’t succumb to falling leaves or other debris that may necessitate another washing.

• Clean under the hood. While it’s easy to notice the buildup of dirt and grime on the interior and exterior of the vehicle, it’s not as easy to notice any such buildup under the hood. And while sellers may not see such unsightly buildup even when they open their hoods, buyers almost certainly will. Plastic covers are typically placed over the engine on many late model vehicles, and these covers can accumulate grease and debris over time. A spray cleaner or detailer can remove such buildup to make what’s under the hood as visually impressive as your freshly cleaned interior and exterior.

• Clear out the trunk. No buyer wants to pop the trunk and see your golf clubs, beach chairs and cooler. When selling a car, remove all of your personal items from the trunk. This shows prospective buyers how much trunk space your vehicle is equipped with. In addition, an empty trunk will make the car lighter and, as a result, more smooth to drive, something buyers are sure to notice when they take the car out for a test drive.

The term “curb appeal” is just as applicable to selling a car as it is to selling a home, and sellers can improve their chances of selling their used vehicles dramatically if they take steps to improve the curb appeal of their cars and trucks.