Showing posts with label maintenance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label maintenance. Show all posts

Thursday, March 26, 2015

Ask Joe Mechanic - Automatic Transmission Servicing


Last week we examined the idea of performing an engine flush and found that in most cases, it is not a recommended procedure. When it comes to transmission flushing, the opposite opinion is true. Most technicians will tell you that a properly performed transmission flush will prolong the life of a transmission, and in some cases, even cure some early signs of a transmission problem such as minor slipping on pullout or sluggish upshifting.

            The first type of transmission maintenance is the basic fluid level check on cars with a dipstick. Most cars need to be checked with the engine warm and running with the transmission in park. The reason for the engine and trans being warm is because transmission fluid expands as the temperature increases. Check either on your dipstick or in the owners’ manual as to the instructions for your vehicle as some cars need to be checked in neutral, and Hondas need to be checked with the engine shut off. There are two important things to observe when you check your fluid. The first, of course is the proper fluid level, which should be at or very close to the full mark. If near or below the add mark, you need to add the appropriate type fluid for your vehicle. Also observe the color and condition of the transmission fluid. It should be a reddish color and it may have some small bits of black particles in it as the clutches wear. If the fluid is brown, smells burned, or has metallic particles in it, these are signs of problems.

            One of the things to know on late model vehicles is that in many cases the manufacturer no longer installs a transmission dipstick, leaving some people to believe that the transmission no longer requires regular maintenance. This is actually quite false. While some vehicles have a sensor, which will indicator trans fluid condition and level on the info display similar to an engine oil indicator, others give no indication. It is true that synthetic trans fluid lasts longer than the older traditional fluids, it still will break down and become contaminated over time and should be changed. Therefore, trans fluid checking and servicing has now basically become a dealer controlled maintenance item unless you are able to locate the fill level plug to check it.

            Ultimately, your owners manual will tell you what transmission servicing is recommended for your vehicle. It will give you a schedule of recommended fluid changes, often between every 24,000 to 36,000 miles. If a transmission flush is recommended, it will probably range between 60,000 and 100,000 miles, while some manufacturers will not recommend flushing at all.

            Opinions vary greatly as to whether or not this process is necessary for proper vehicle maintenance.  Yes, flushing a transmission assists in removing dirt from the torque converter, valve body, trans cooler and cooler lines, but is it really beneficial to an engine?  An article on Wisegeek.com reflects that some automotive professionals report that regular flushing assist with better working and longer last transmissions.  However, the same article notes that many feel that flushes are unnecessary and can damage a vehicle’s valves and seals.
On most vehicles, it is still possible for a mechanically inclined person to do a fluid and filter change, and this is definitely better than no servicing at all. The first thing you should do is to either pull your vehicle up on servicing ramps or jack the vehicle up and place it securely on jack stands. If there is a drain plug, remove the plug and drain into an appropriate drain pan. If no plug is present, or after draining, carefully unbolt and remove the transmission pan, allowing it to drain into your drain pan. Look in the bottom of the pan to see if there is any dirt, sludge or metallic particles. A presence of large amounts of deposits is a sign of developing problems. Clean the inside of the pan, remove the old gasket and set aside. Now remove the filter, more fluid should now drain out of the valve body, and dispose of the old filter. Install a new filter, a new gasket and reinstall the pan. Estimate how many quarts of fluid that you have drained and add slightly less than that amount. Lower the car to the ground, start the engine and run until warm. Move the shift selector through all positions and place back in park. Check your fluid and add as necessary to bring up to the proper level. Drive the car about fifteen minutes and then recheck and add fluid if needed. While this process does not remove all the fluid from the transmission, it does serve as a great benefit.

When using a transmission flushing machine, more of the old fluid is removed, and the overall transmission system is cleaned. This means that there is less dirt and old fluid to contaminate and weaken the new fluid. In some cases, a special transmission flushing chemical is added to help clean the system before the new transmission fluid is added. The fresh transmission fluid means that the transmission should run cooler and more efficiently, thereby prolonging the life of the transmission.
The only way a transmission flushing machine will damage your transmission is if a high pressure back-flush type machine is used to force fluid backward through the transmission. This type of flushing system is hardly used anymore. In most cases, a transmission flush does not rely on pressure to flush out the residue of the old fluid. Instead, the transmission's pump or a machine is used to gently circulate the new fluid through the system either by connecting directly to the transmission pump or into the transmission cooler lines and follows its normal path of circulation. This means that rather than applying pressure that could damage the transmission, simple replacement is used to rid the system of most of the old fluid.
There are two slight drawbacks to the systems that connect to the transmission cooler lines. First, is that unlike the normal transmission circulation path, this pushes all the fluid through the lower pressure regulator which controls the internal system of the transmission, it will not direct fluid through the higher pressure regulator to the torque convertor. This means that there will still be some old fluid left in the system which will somewhat dilute the new fluid. The other issue is that by not removing the pan, the filter will not get changed unless you request it, and the technician will not have the opportunity to examine the inside of the pan.
In general, periodic transmission flushes are a good idea, no matter which of the two current types of machines is used. But, there is one time that you definitely should not do a transmission flush. If the fluid has a severely burned smell or there is a collection of metallic particles on the dipstick, your transmission has internal part damage and is probably very close to failing. Your transmission just has not figured out that it should die yet, but if you flush it, it will most likely fail almost immediately. Save your money for a replacement transmission, because at some time, probably in the near future, you will need one. This is one of the major reasons why you would want a transmission flush to be performed by a qualified professional.
Portions of this article were sourced from the Transmission Flushing article featured on www.wisegeek.com. 

Wednesday, March 18, 2015

Ask Joe Mechanic - Engine Flushing


A hotly debated subject is engine flushing and whether it is beneficial or it is actually harmful to an engine. No two technicians seem to agree as to whether you should perform this service on your vehicle.    


The process of engine flushing is used to clean sludge, dirt and deposits that build up in the internal parts of an engine, especially inside the valve cover and the oil pan over time. The main purpose of performing an engine flush is to try to extend the life of the engine. By flushing an engine periodically, the inside of the engine will hopefully stay relatively clean and will operate more efficiently. 


The method used to flush an engine is somewhat like what is used to flush a transmission. When flushing a transmission, the fluid is pushed through the transmission to carry the old fluid and dirt and deposits out of the transmission by way of the drain plug. With engine flushing, a cleaning chemical is added to the engine oil and circulates through the lubrication system. The chemicals eat away at the deposits, eventually making their way into the oil pan, where they collect in the bottom of the pan to allow it to be drained.


While the theory behind flushing an engine seems like something that should be done on a periodic basis, there is much disagreement as to whether it is smart and effective to do. While it is general knowledge that it can be beneficial in low mileage vehicles that have not had proper maintenance performed, something that is often found to happen in lease vehicles where the leasee feels that it is not my vehicle and I am giving it back in two or three years, so why worry about changing oil and spending that extra money. Many technicians question whether it is a good idea in higher mileage vehicles. There is the chance in an older engine that the buildup of sludge may be more than the chemicals in the flush can properly loosen and remove, which could worsen a bad situation. Another fear is that the sludge will lie in the pan and clog the oil pump pickup screen and cause oil starvation. Instead of performing an engine flush, it is much more effective to disassemble and clean the engine as long as it is in good operating condition, even though this is more expensive, or else do a complete engine rebuild if it is determined that the engine is not in good condition. 


Because there is such a difference of opinion whether to do an engine flush or not, not every garage offers or recommends this service. Some facilities that used to do engine flushes, including a dealer where I used to work, no longer do so. Even in shops that do engine flushes, they will generally have a technician check the condition of the engine before they will do the flush. 


It is important to remember that there is no substitute for proper maintenance. If anything, an engine flush should be considered as a way to supplement the proper care of the engine and thereby help to prolong its life. Also, if you do choose to perform this service, I recommend having a professional do it and seek their advice first, I do not consider this a wise do it yourself procedure.

Tuesday, January 20, 2015

Ask Joe Mechanic - How Important is an Oil Change?


It’s there dominating the “to do” list and procrastinating only makes it worse. It’s the car’s oil change. Was that reminder sticker on the windshield purposely put there to make you feel bad? Let’s try a different approach, looking at all the good things that happen when the oil and filter in your car are changed.
First lets assume your car is one that is driven a minimum number of miles and seldom reaches the 3,500 miles in three months’ time. Your vehicle needs the oil change more than cars that are driven more often. In the short trip mode the engine heat ups and then cools down for long periods creating condensation. The moisture can be seen accumulating on the oil fill cap in the form of a gray oily globular mess. Sometimes this condition can be misdiagnosed as an internal engine problem. You probably can drop back to an oil change three times a year or the minimum time interval prescribed in your owner’s manual. For normal usage, some people think cars can last 10,000 miles on their oil, others say not even half that. A nice general rule is every four to six months, or somewhere around 5,000 miles, especially if you are using synthetic or synthetic blend motor oils.
Secondly, oil breaks down over time and extended usage and it picks up dirt and contaminants, and these can deposit in your oil pan as a thick, gooey sludge which can eventually clog the pickup screen for the oil pump. If this occurs, it can cause oil starvation to the engine and cause a premature engine failure at worst, or at least the expensive cost of removing the oil pan to clean out the pan and the oil pickup.
Also, if your car has a turbocharger or a supercharger, regular oil changes are even more important. Remember the turbo is spinning at 100,000s of rpm.  It also runs really hot so any oil in the turbo when the engine is switched off will degrade unless it is in good condition. This also shows the importance of allowing the engine to cool down a little before shutting down after a spirited run.
Next, don’t underestimate the value of having a trained individual under the hood of your car. They will be able to spot a number of trouble situations that, if left untreated, have the potential to cause a breakdown. They should be looking for fluid leakage, cracked or frayed belts, bulging hoses and safety items including torn wiper blades, burned out lights, and unsafe tires. The success of this approach only works if you have found a shop that distinguishes true customer need from sales effort.
The regular oil change also establishes a benchmark of when your car’s maintenance needs are to be met. For instance, every third oil change can be the point at which the tires need to be rotated. Also, your recognition of what fluids had to be added may serve as the first warning sign that one of the systems is leaking. The need to repeatedly add coolant may indicate a leaking water pump, for example.
The underside of your car is rarely seen. The oil change provides the technician a chance to easily look for undercar problems. These would include torn CV boots, broken exhaust parts, or problems with the transmission or differential. Anything that’s broken, loose or excessively worn is in clear sight. This idea of the lube tech or service facility disclosing legitimate problems only works to your advantage if you’re in the hands of a reputable shop.
Your car’s oil change may be something you don’t look forward to and hate to take the time to get done. However, there isn’t a car maintenance procedure that is more beneficial to your car when it’s done by a service facility you trust.
            Just remember, your vehicle is likely the second most costly investment you will make in your life besides your home. If your sink is leaking or your furnace is due for service, are you going to ignore it? When water comes through your ceiling after a hard storm and you have a large wet spot on your ceiling, are you going to say, well, maybe next month I can get to it? I don’t think so! Treat your car the way you would your home and it will most likely give you years of good service.

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

Your Auto Know: Giving Your Car "Curb Appeal"


“Curb appeal” is a term often associated with selling a house. Homeowners selling their
A pre-owned car with curb appeal
is far easier to sell than a vehicle that
appears dirty or poorly maintained.
homes want to improve their home’s external appearance so it creates a stronger first impression when prospective buyers first pull up to the curb for an open house or a visit with their realtor.

But while curb appeal is often uttered in real estate parlance, the term also is applicable when selling cars. Private sellers want to make their vehicles look as nice as possible, giving it the kind of curb appeal that impresses potential buyers the moment they see the vehicle. Improving a car’s curb appeal typically doesn’t require as much work as doing the same for a home, but the following are a few ways sellers can improve the look of their vehicles in an attempt to impress prospective buyers.

• Give the car a good wash. The easiest way to improve how a car looks from the outside is to wash and wax it. Sellers should make this part of their vehicle maintenance routine until the car is sold. If you’re driving the car while you’re attempting to sell it, wash and wax the vehicle each week. Always wash the car before a prospective buyer is scheduled to come over and take a look. Spray detailers can be used to give the car some extra sparkle.

• Don’t forget the interior. While a car’s exterior contributes heavily to a buyer’s first impression of the vehicle, the interior also bears heavy influence on any potential buyers. Vacuum the vehicle’s interior, including both the floorboards and the seats, and clean the windows and windshields from the inside. Once the cup-holders have been vacuumed, clean them with a damp cloth to remove any coffee stains or spots where something may have melted. A dirty interior may make buyers question if the rest of the vehicle, especially what’s under the hood, was properly maintained, so be sure to include this easy step as part of your curb appeal routine. Clean the interior as necessary until the car is sold.

• Park the car in the garage. Whether you plan to keep driving the car every day until it’s sold or intend to keep it parked until the right buyer comes along, try to park the car in your garage or in some place where it’s protected from the elements. This prevents any additional damage from harsh weather and ensures a freshly washed car won’t succumb to falling leaves or other debris that may necessitate another washing.

• Clean under the hood. While it’s easy to notice the buildup of dirt and grime on the interior and exterior of the vehicle, it’s not as easy to notice any such buildup under the hood. And while sellers may not see such unsightly buildup even when they open their hoods, buyers almost certainly will. Plastic covers are typically placed over the engine on many late model vehicles, and these covers can accumulate grease and debris over time. A spray cleaner or detailer can remove such buildup to make what’s under the hood as visually impressive as your freshly cleaned interior and exterior.

• Clear out the trunk. No buyer wants to pop the trunk and see your golf clubs, beach chairs and cooler. When selling a car, remove all of your personal items from the trunk. This shows prospective buyers how much trunk space your vehicle is equipped with. In addition, an empty trunk will make the car lighter and, as a result, more smooth to drive, something buyers are sure to notice when they take the car out for a test drive.

The term “curb appeal” is just as applicable to selling a car as it is to selling a home, and sellers can improve their chances of selling their used vehicles dramatically if they take steps to improve the curb appeal of their cars and trucks.

Thursday, October 30, 2014

Ask Joe Mechanic - Getting Ready for Winter


The seasons are changing so it is time to start thinking about getting your vehicle ready for winter. There area number of things that sometimes get overlooked which are very important and can be very expensive to repair.  This is a good time of the year to have your car serviced. If you drive an average number of miles per year, about 12,000 or less, you need to have your car serviced at least twice a year.  Fall and Spring are excellent times to do this as it allows you to prep your car for winter’s cold and summer’s heat respectively. If you are not a “do-it-yourselfer,” and take your car to a reputable shop, they will most likely already be checking these things for you, but it never hurts to make sure.

            In addition to the normal oil and filter change, it is very important to check your tires. Check your tire pressure first of all. You should always inflate your tires to the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations for your type of usage. Most vehicles have a label either on the driver’s door or doorjamb, if not, the information is in the owners’ manual. Do not just go by the maximum pressure marked on the tire sidewall, as this may not be suitable for your vehicle. A tire that is a few pounds low on air pressure can cost you 2 to 3 mpg.  At $3.50 per gallon, nobody wants to waste gasoline!

            When you are checking your air pressure, look for signs of abnormal tire wear. A tire that is worn on just the inside or outside edge is usually a sign of an alignment problem. If the tires are worn on both the inside and outside edges, this is usually a sign they have been run underinflated. If the center of the tire is worn down with good tread on the edges, this is a sign of either the tires being overinflated or having tires that are too wide for the wheels on the vehicle. This is seen most commonly on 4WDs.

            While your car is on the lift having its oil changed, your technician can give your tires a good professional lookover, and if necessary, do a tire rotation for you.  If he does a tire rotation, while each wheel is off, he can do a visual brake check to make sure your pads do not need replacement.

            When you get under the hood, there are quite a number of things that should be checked. Always check your antifreeze for fill level and condition. If your antifreeze is discolored, especially if it is rusty colored, you should have the system drained and flushed and refilled with new antifreeze. If you are not having the coolant changed, you should have it tested to make sure the level of protection is sufficient for your area. For our region, that should be at least -35 (F) degrees, because you never know when in your travels you could run into a cold pocket of air in a valley.

            Another item often overlooked until the first good freeze is your windshield washer solvent. Because people often add water over the summer, when the weather turns cold, I have seen many washer reservoirs frozen solid. It is important in the fall and winter to add full strength washer solvent to give maximum protection.  If the reservoir freezes and cracks, it can be expensive to replace because in most new vehicles it is not in a very easily accessible location and so may involve some significant labor to replace it.
Also, examine your belts and hoses. Check belts for proper tension and also for visible cracks. If your belts are older than 5 or 6 years old, it is a good idea to get them replaced.  It is not fun to get stuck on the side of the road with a broken belt on some cold morning.  As far as hoses, look for cracks or if they are bulging or have a spongy feeling near where they connect to the radiator or engine, if so, they should be replaced.

It’s also extremely important to know the status of your vehicle’s battery.  Make sure it doesn’t appear corrosive around the battery posts and cables.  If present, corrosion needs to be thoroughly cleaned off.  While cleaning, be careful not to get it on your skin, clothes or in your eyes. If your battery is not a sealed unit, the electrolyte level should be checked and add distilled water to bring it to the proper level if needed.

A few other items you may want to verify for proper operating condition are front and rear defrosters, your vehicle’s heater and if it has heated seats, making sure they’re in good working order.  If you check these items, your automobile should be pretty well prepared for winter.  However, do remember that problems can arise quickly, and without warning, so, if your vehicle suddenly starts acting differently, get it to the shop!  It may be nothing, but it is much better to be safe than sorry and sitting alongside the road in a disabled vehicle.

Tuesday, April 29, 2014

Ask Joe Mechanic - Periodic Maintenance

All vehicles require periodic maintenance, how often depends on the vehicle and the type of driving the individual does on a regular basis. The first rule of thumb is to follow what your owner’s manual
Periodic Maintenance is key to vehicle longevity.
recommends for your particular vehicle. Usually, the manual will give an option of two schedules, one for highway and one for local driving. My own recommendation on that matter is to follow the one for local or more frequent intervals, as nearly all of us do a mix of driving types and also experience a great impact of changing weather conditions. 

            As I said the last two weeks in Auto Locator, proper care of the inside and outside of your car will help to extend its useful life. The same thing goes for periodic maintenance. Actually, the care of the inside and outside of your vehicle should be considered part of your maintenance schedule. A car that has a routine schedule of recommended maintenance will in most cases last longer than a car that has a haphazard maintenance history.

            In recent years, many of the intervals for different operations have been extended due to changes in the makeup of many of the types of fluids and tune-up items. We now see antifreeze changes, tune-ups and some other items pushed to 100,000 miles. Some of these things I personally think are too long a time, but if you follow what you vehicle’s manual says to do, you will not void your warranty.

            Oil changes now are often every 15,000 miles or follow the on-board computer recommendation. I suggest, even with synthetic oils, that 10,000 miles is enough before oil and filter changes should be performed. Transmission fluids should be changed about every 30,000 miles. Air filters should be checked once a year to make sure they are not restricting to air flows. I feel that antifreeze should be changed at least every 50,000 miles and tune-up items should be checked at the same time.

Another big unknown is fuel filter condition with the increasing use of ethanol. Also, hybrids may require some different items to be checked to keep them in peak operating condition. Diesels also require different service schedules and may also require special diesel grade oil. All this information is in your owner’s manual, which should be considered the Bible for your vehicle.

            Periodic maintenance is the single most important thing that you can do to prolong the life of your vehicle. A final thought to consider, during my time working at dealerships, I found that people who leased vehicles were more apt to be lax in the proper care of the vehicle they were driving. I guess this happens because they figure it is not their vehicle and they are returning it in two or three years. But, if you read the fine print of the lease, it states you can be held responsible for repair and depreciation costs due to the improper care of the vehicle. So, even if you are leasing, it is in your best interest to at least perform the minimum required maintenance on the automobile and keep you receipts as proof of service performed.

Friday, April 25, 2014

Ask Joe Mechanic - Interior Car Care

            There are quite a number of things that you can do to prolong the life and maintain the beauty of the interior of your vehicle. Most of these things just take some time and effort and do not cost a lot of money.

            First of all, it is important periodically vacuum your interior. Do not just do your carpets, as running the vacuum over your seats will never hurt them. Also be sure to go under and alongside the seats and any other cavities that you can reach. And always do your trunk area.

            As far as your seats and any other upholstered areas, if it is cloth, after vacuuming, if the material is soiled, a good upholstery or carpet cleaner can be used. A product like Resolve foaming cleaner can be used and be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions. The same thing can be done to clean your carpets and carpeted floor mats. This method may also be used on your headliner if it is dirty.
You can then, if you so choose, apply a Scotchguard treatment for ease of future cleaning. If you seating is vinyl or leather, you could use a mild dish soap and warm water solution with a soft cloth or brush if more heavily soiled. After cleaning, apply a good quality automotive leather protectant, but use sparingly so as to not make the leather too slippery or sticky.

            You should also use that mild soap and water to wipe down the top of your dash and your door panels and console, but make sure you ring your rag out well and do not wipe over any switches or electronics. Electronic screens such as radios and navigation or DVD player screens should be cleaned with an approved electronic spray screen cleaner.
After wiping down your dash and door panels, apply a protectant such as Armor-all, but definitely do not use it on your steering wheel or seats, as it is much too slippery.

            To keep your car smelling fresh, you can use the good old standard, the “Pine Tree” air fresheners. However, I personally like the small air fresheners that can be inserted into the dashboard vents.

            Spending a few hours a couple times on these car care tasks a year can really pay off in keeping your interior looking good, just like the day you bought it. See you next week.