Ask Joe Mechanic - How Important is an Oil Change?

It’s there dominating the “to do” list and procrastinating only makes it worse. It’s the car’s oil change. Was that reminder sticker on the windshield purposely put there to make you feel bad? Let’s try a different approach, looking at all the good things that happen when the oil and filter in your car are changed.

First lets assume your car is one that is driven a minimum number of miles and seldom reaches the 3,500 miles in three months’ time. Your vehicle needs the oil change more than cars that are driven more often. In the short trip mode the engine heat ups and then cools down for long periods creating condensation. The moisture can be seen accumulating on the oil fill cap in the form of a gray oily globular mess. Sometimes this condition can be misdiagnosed as an internal engine problem. You probably can drop back to an oil change three times a year or the minimum time interval prescribed in your owner’s manual. For normal usage, some people think cars can last 10,000 miles on their oil, others say not even half that. A nice general rule is every four to six months, or somewhere around 5,000 miles, especially if you are using synthetic or synthetic blend motor oils.

Secondly, oil breaks down over time and extended usage and it picks up dirt and contaminants, and these can deposit in your oil pan as a thick, gooey sludge which can eventually clog the pickup screen for the oil pump. If this occurs, it can cause oil starvation to the engine and cause a premature engine failure at worst, or at least the expensive cost of removing the oil pan to clean out the pan and the oil pickup.

Also, if your car has a turbocharger or a supercharger, regular oil changes are even more important. Remember the turbo is spinning at 100,000s of rpm.  It also runs really hot so any oil in the turbo when the engine is switched off will degrade unless it is in good condition. This also shows the importance of allowing the engine to cool down a little before shutting down after a spirited run.

Next, don’t underestimate the value of having a trained individual under the hood of your car. They will be able to spot a number of trouble situations that, if left untreated, have the potential to cause a breakdown. They should be looking for fluid leakage, cracked or frayed belts, bulging hoses and safety items including torn wiper blades, burned out lights, and unsafe tires. The success of this approach only works if you have found a shop that distinguishes true customer need from sales effort.

The regular oil change also establishes a benchmark of when your car’s maintenance needs are to be met. For instance, every third oil change can be the point at which the tires need to be rotated. Also, your recognition of what fluids had to be added may serve as the first warning sign that one of the systems is leaking. The need to repeatedly add coolant may indicate a leaking water pump, for example.

The underside of your car is rarely seen. The oil change provides the technician a chance to easily look for undercar problems. These would include torn CV boots, broken exhaust parts, or problems with the transmission or differential. Anything that’s broken, loose or excessively worn is in clear sight. This idea of the lube tech or service facility disclosing legitimate problems only works to your advantage if you’re in the hands of a reputable shop.

Your car’s oil change may be something you don’t look forward to and hate to take the time to get done. However, there isn’t a car maintenance procedure that is more beneficial to your car when it’s done by a service facility you trust.

            Just remember, your vehicle is likely the second most costly investment you will make in your life besides your home. If your sink is leaking or your furnace is due for service, are you going to ignore it? When water comes through your ceiling after a hard storm and you have a large wet spot on your ceiling, are you going to say, well, maybe next month I can get to it? I don’t think so! Treat your car the way you would your home and it will most likely give you years of good service.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Gifting a Car for Christmas

Many of us parents have considered whether or not we would be wise to give the gift of an automobile to our child for Christmas.  The thought of how their young face will light up with delight when they realize what is “under” the tree this year can bring a parent as much joy and delight as it does their recipient kid.  However, to do the automobile gift giving right, you must follow several steps put forth by the state of Pennsylvania. 
So, before you undertake this magnitude of gift giving, lets us help you make sure you have crossed all of your merry “t’s” and dotted all of your holiday “i’s”!  We will examine the steps need to do this in the state of Pennsylvania.

• To get started, make sure you have the vehicle title.
• If you’ve lost the title, you’ll need to apply for a replacement before you can gift the auto.
• PennDOT requires that you work with a notary to transfer a vehicle to your child.
• You’ll need to take your driver’s license and a recent bank statement, pay stub or utility bill with you to complete the title transfer.
• The recipient of the gifted vehicle will need to accompany you to the notary.
• The two of you will need to fill out the applicable sections of the title document to complete the transfer and sign it.
• Both the gift giver and recipient need to complete an Affidavit of Gift document (form MV-13ST) while at the notary.
• And with check or money order, the title transfer fee will need to be paid to complete the transaction. 
• Following the completion of the transaction, your kid has ten days to get the vehicle inspected by a garage or mechanic.
• Of course, auto insurance in order to legally drive the vehicle is a must-have as well.

Another angle of gifting an automobile is that of charitable giving.  Donating your vehicle to an automotive charity drive as part of your yearend giving is both an admirable thing.  Before giving, make sure you are familiar with the donation requirements of your state.  In Pennsylvania, if you want to donate a vehicle, you must fully own the vehicle and need to have the title to accompany it, or you cannot donate it.  If you’ve misplaced the title, than apply for a replacement before donation.

If you decide to gift or donate a vehicle this Christmas season, make yourself familiar with your states requirements, follow those steps and you can take some of the tedium out of the process.  Tis the season and we wish you ‘happy automobile giving and donating!’

Information for this article was sourced from www.DMVanswers.com.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Winter Driving Tips

             Since we have had a few minor weather inconveniences due to snow and ice, I felt it necessary to review important things to consider when driving in winter conditions.  We already covered getting your car prepared for winter, but it is also important to prepare yourself for everything that winter can throw at you.

             The first thing is preparation. Now is the time to get all the things ready that you should have in your vehicle just in case you have a problem this winter. If you live in an area where winter can strike early and hard, such as around Hazleton as I have experienced, all of these items can prove of great importance, and in extreme cases, could mean the difference between life and death! A winter survival kit should include; a snow shovel (collapsible ones are handy and do not take up much space), a scraper/snow brush, tire chains if you travel in an area that gets a lot of snow, a flashlight with extra batteries, a bag of cat litter, sand or salt incase you get stuck, jumper cables, flares or an emergency triangle, and a bright colored cloth to signal for help.

You should also have a tight-sealing container in which you pack candles, matches or lighter, bottled water and snacks such as energy bars. Some of the most important things you should have in your car during the winter are; mittens or insulated gloves and a ski mask, a sleeping bag or blankets, first aid supplies, and any prescription medications for at least 2 days including diabetic supplies and a fully charged cell phone. I know this list sounds extensive and maybe a bit extreme, but it is much better to be over prepared than to be stranded and possibly not see help for a couple days.  This happened to man from Pine Grove a few years ago, he was on his way home from work on RT 501 just a few miles north a Myerstown and got stuck.  His car sat completely buried on the roadway in a drift for three days until he was rescued.

            When you experience bad weather, it’s also imperative to use common sense. As soon as roads become slick, slow down and increase the distance between you and the vehicle in front of you. If someone insists on following you too closely, pull over when safe and let them pass. One fallacy that many fall victim to is that ‘I have a 4WD so I do not have to worry.’ Yes, 4WD definitely gives you more traction and gets you moving better, but, most 4WDs are heavier vehicles and that extra weight will actually increase braking distances on slick roads. Also, on ice, 4WD actually can be more tricky while under power and stopping. Giving extra room not only allows you more chance to stop, but if the vehicle in front of you or an oncoming vehicle has problems, you have more time and space to take evasive action.

            If you find yourself in a skid, there are a number of things to remember and to consider depending on the situation. If the rear wheels are skidding, take your foot off the gas and steer in the direction that the car is sliding. If the front wheels skid, take your foot off the gas, shift into neutral and allow the car to slow itself and then start to apply light braking and steer in the direction you want to go. Even an expert can sometimes have trouble recovering from a skid. Snow tires can aid you in snow, but they will not make much difference on ice unless they are studded. 

            Should your car break down or you become stuck, there are a few things to remember. If you are able, try to get your car safely off the road surface. Put out flares or the warning triangle to increase your visibility with other drivers. If you are stuck, you should try to shovel your vehicle out, use some abrasive material for traction and see if you can rock yourself free. If you are unable to get free, make a call for help, but do not over use your phone as to retain its charge. You can run your engine for heat about ten minutes every hour, but leave a window open slightly for ventilation and always keep snow clear of your exhaust to prevent carbon monoxide buildup. Use your blankets or sleeping bag to keep warn and ration yourself on your snacks and water so that you do not exhaust your supply. Also remember that you can eat snow for your thirst, but not too much at once as this can lower body temperature. And, make sure it’s not yellow!

            Remember, some prior preparation, and use of common sense may prevent a very dangerous situation from developing!

You Auto Know: Trimming the Costs of Auto Ownership

According to the Automobile Association of America (AAA), the cost of owning a vehicle is on the rise. In its 2013 "Your Driving Costs" study, AAA determined the cost of owning a

Driving a smaller car instead of an
SUV can save drivers a considerable
amount of money over the course of a year.

vehicle is somewhere between $7,000 and $11,000 annually depending on the type of vehicle. That's a substantial amount of money and may leave many motorists looking for ways to reduce the cost of automobile ownership.

Driving is a way of life for many people left with little choice but to keep a vehicle. Thanks to mass transportation, city dwellers might be able to get by without owning a vehicle, but those who live in rural communities or even the suburbs often find that public transportation runs too infrequently or inefficiently to meet their needs. There are ways for those who need their own automobiles to reduce the financial burden of vehicle ownership.

·      Downsize your vehicle. In its study, AAA found that the average cost of owning a vehicle varied considerably depending on the size of that vehicle. That should come as no surprise, as larger vehicles tend to consume more fuel and, as a result, cost more money. But drivers might be surprised to learn just how much less it costs to own a small sedan than it does a four-wheel-drive sport utility vehicle. Small sedans cost the least amount of money to own at $6,967 annually, while four-wheel-drive SUVs cost nearly twice that amount, setting their owners back $11,599 per year. But the most surprising thing from the AAA study might be its findings as to the costs of owing a large sedan. Such vehicles are nearly as expensive as larger SUVs, costing drivers more than $11,000 per year. So drivers who downsize their vehicles to a small sedan will likely save themselves a substantial amount of money over the life of the vehicle.

·      Drive safe and cash in on lower insurance premiums. Though numerous factors, including individuals' driving histories, influence the cost of auto insurance, drivers with clean track records might be able to buck the industry trend and pay less for their auto insurance policy next year than they did this year. In its study, AAA found that the cost of insurance rose by nearly 3 percent in 2012 from the year before. But drivers who can avoid accidents and citations are likely to see their rates decrease from year to year.

·      Buy a used car. Buying a used car may not give buyers the initial excitement of driving off a car lot behind the wheel of a brand new vehicle, but it might prove quite exciting for your bank account. Revisiting a study they conducted in 2001, in 2013 experts at automotive Web site Edmunds.com examined three different financing methods and the cost of each over a six-year period, which the global market intelligence firm Polk estimates is the average car ownership period. The study examined the costs, including interest rates and fees, of leasing or buying a 2013 Honda Accord EX and buying a used 2010 Accord EX. The total cost of buying used after six years was $20,960, while the cost of leasing was $24,768 and the cost of buying new was $28,330. Buying used even saves buyers money when factoring in equity. Of course, leasing saves drivers the cost of maintenance and repairs, which can be considerable when buying used vehicles. However, an older used car won't cost as much to insure as a vehicle that is being leased or financed.

·      Drive less. Of course, the easiest way for automobile owners to trim the costs of owning their vehicles is to drive less. Though vehicle manufacturers have improved fuel economy in recent years, driving less will save money on fuel, the cost of which hinges on a host of factors, including petroleum demand and economic conditions. Such factors may cause a dip in fuel prices one day, but a sharp increase in price the next day. Regardless of those fluctuations in fuel prices, drivers who can cut back on their driving are certain to save money.

The cost of vehicle ownership is on the rise. But motorists who rely on their vehicles can still find ways to save money. 

You Auto Know: Cold Weather Motorcycling

The arrival of cooler temperatures means motorcycle enthusiasts should have a plan in place for their vehicles. Although fall sees many riders pack their bikes into the garage to

Riders should exercise caution when riding
motorcycles in late autumn and winter.

wait out the winter, many others see no reason to quit the great outdoors just because colder weather is on the way.

No matter which path riders take and when they take it, preparation is essential when riding motorcycles. Here are a few pointers for riders to consider once the leaves have started to change color.

Layer up

Layering clothing is a key component of riding a motorcycle in colder temperatures. Many people are not very active on the back of a bike, so they will not generate enough heat on their own. Layering clothing will take the bite out of frosty winds and any precipitation that happens to be falling.

Layer clothing so that you will feel comfortable, maybe even a bit warm when you are just standing around outdoors. A first layer of thermal or fleece is a good idea. Then layer other materials as needed for comfort. Just do not wear so many layers that your mobility is compromised. If layers are not keeping you warm enough, invest in heated clothing.

The outermost layer you wear should be weather- and wind-resistant. Wind chill can quickly sap your energy and cut your ride considerably. Leather clothing will fit the bill in most cases, but a rain suit or some other waterproof material also may be necessary at times.

Leaves

Leaves can be a significant hazard to riders in the fall. Damp leaves can make a slippery mess of roads, particularly on turns and curves.

Avoid all piles of leaves, as you do not know what may be hiding beneath them. Consider wet leaves as dangerous as black ice, as soggy leaves can be just as slippery.

Salt and sand

Road maintenance crews will use sand and salt to keep roads clear when snow and ice forms. Avoid riding on salty roads because the salt can corrode chrome and paint. If you choose to do any winter riding, apply a coat of wax to all parts of the motorcycle before going for a ride. This will help protect it and enable any salt to be easily wiped off after riding.

Standing water

If it rains or snows lightly after an extended period of dryness, oils in the road can come to the surface, making roads quite slick. In addition, stay on the lookout for puddles and other standing water. While motorcycle tires are good for displacing water, they still can hydroplane. Stay focused when riding on wet surfaces.

Foraging animals

One potential hazard riders may not consider is wildlife. Harvested crops reduce easy food sources, and animals may be on the move looking for food. Hunters can push deer out of fields. A collision with a deer can damage a car, never mind a motorcycle. Always use caution in rural areas, particularly at dawn and dusk.

Winterizing

If you choose to store your bike when the weather starts to get cold, remember to put a fuel stabilizer in the tank, fill the tank with gas and hook the battery up to a battery tender. This will ensure the bike is ready to hit the road when the temperatures warm up.

Happy Thanksgiving from Auto Locator!

From our family to you and yours, we wish you a Happy Thanksgiving!  

We hope you have a safe and joyous time traveling to and fro as you set off to visit family and friends.  

We are thankful now and all year long for your business and loyal support of Auto Locator!

Ask Joe Mechanic: The Importance of Recalls

This week, I am departing from my regularly planned article. The reason for this departure is due to the second major vehicle recall this year and one that could possibly be the greatest recall in the history of the auto industry.  I am speaking of the airbag recall.  Unfortunately, this recall could potentially affect over 30 million vehicles.

How can you know if your vehicle is involved in this or any other recall?  Well, every week I try to include in this column, whatever new recalls have been posted in the previous week.  This is something that I take very seriously and have since day one of writing the Ask Joe Mechanic column.  I like to keep our readers informed of all auto-related subjects.

Or, it is quite simple to find out online if any of the vehicles that you own have outstanding recalls posted against them.  No matter how old the recall may be, as long as it is still considered open – meaning the manufacturer is obligated to make a repair if you bring the vehicle to the dealer.  Generally, that means any safety recall posted in the past fifteen years. All you have to do is go to the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration website, www.nhtsa.gov and you enter the VIN number of your vehicle.  After doing so, the site lets you know if there is anything that you need to have taken care of with your particular vehicle.   

Please, for your safety and the safety of other drivers, visit this website and check on each and every vehicle that you own.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Getting Ready for Winter

The seasons are changing so it is time to start thinking about getting your vehicle ready for winter. There area number of things that sometimes get overlooked which are very important and can be very expensive to repair.  This is a good time of the year to have your car serviced. If you drive an average number of miles per year, about 12,000 or less, you need to have your car serviced at least twice a year.  Fall and Spring are excellent times to do this as it allows you to prep your car for winter’s cold and summer’s heat respectively. If you are not a “do-it-yourselfer,” and take your car to a reputable shop, they will most likely already be checking these things for you, but it never hurts to make sure.

            In addition to the normal oil and filter change, it is very important to check your tires. Check your tire pressure first of all. You should always inflate your tires to the vehicle manufacturer’s recommendations for your type of usage. Most vehicles have a label either on the driver’s door or doorjamb, if not, the information is in the owners’ manual. Do not just go by the maximum pressure marked on the tire sidewall, as this may not be suitable for your vehicle. A tire that is a few pounds low on air pressure can cost you 2 to 3 mpg.  At $3.50 per gallon, nobody wants to waste gasoline!

            When you are checking your air pressure, look for signs of abnormal tire wear. A tire that is worn on just the inside or outside edge is usually a sign of an alignment problem. If the tires are worn on both the inside and outside edges, this is usually a sign they have been run underinflated. If the center of the tire is worn down with good tread on the edges, this is a sign of either the tires being overinflated or having tires that are too wide for the wheels on the vehicle. This is seen most commonly on 4WDs.

            While your car is on the lift having its oil changed, your technician can give your tires a good professional lookover, and if necessary, do a tire rotation for you.  If he does a tire rotation, while each wheel is off, he can do a visual brake check to make sure your pads do not need replacement.

            When you get under the hood, there are quite a number of things that should be checked. Always check your antifreeze for fill level and condition. If your antifreeze is discolored, especially if it is rusty colored, you should have the system drained and flushed and refilled with new antifreeze. If you are not having the coolant changed, you should have it tested to make sure the level of protection is sufficient for your area. For our region, that should be at least -35 (F) degrees, because you never know when in your travels you could run into a cold pocket of air in a valley.

            Another item often overlooked until the first good freeze is your windshield washer solvent. Because people often add water over the summer, when the weather turns cold, I have seen many washer reservoirs frozen solid. It is important in the fall and winter to add full strength washer solvent to give maximum protection.  If the reservoir freezes and cracks, it can be expensive to replace because in most new vehicles it is not in a very easily accessible location and so may involve some significant labor to replace it.

Also, examine your belts and hoses. Check belts for proper tension and also for visible cracks. If your belts are older than 5 or 6 years old, it is a good idea to get them replaced.  It is not fun to get stuck on the side of the road with a broken belt on some cold morning.  As far as hoses, look for cracks or if they are bulging or have a spongy feeling near where they connect to the radiator or engine, if so, they should be replaced.

It’s also extremely important to know the status of your vehicle’s battery.  Make sure it doesn’t appear corrosive around the battery posts and cables.  If present, corrosion needs to be thoroughly cleaned off.  While cleaning, be careful not to get it on your skin, clothes or in your eyes. If your battery is not a sealed unit, the electrolyte level should be checked and add distilled water to bring it to the proper level if needed.

A few other items you may want to verify for proper operating condition are front and rear defrosters, your vehicle’s heater and if it has heated seats, making sure they’re in good working order.  If you check these items, your automobile should be pretty well prepared for winter.  However, do remember that problems can arise quickly, and without warning, so, if your vehicle suddenly starts acting differently, get it to the shop!  It may be nothing, but it is much better to be safe than sorry and sitting alongside the road in a disabled vehicle.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Electronic Stability Control

          Electronic stability control is known by quite a number of names including electronic stability program, dynamic stability control, Stabilitrak, Advance Trak, and more. No matter what name it has, this feature has one purpose, to aid the driver in recovering from an uncontrolled skid or wheel spin.

            As early as 1987, BMW and Mercedes Benz were working with and perfecting their first traction control systems for introduction. While traction control does not aid the driver in steering, it is an integral and very necessary part of the system.  Applying brakes to an individual wheel as needed and also modulating the throttle can control wheel spin. By 1992, BMW had made this feature standard across its entire model line.  The same year, Mercedes, with the help of Robert Bosch, co-developed a system that they called Elektronisches Stabilitatsprogrammen or Electronic Stability program, trademarked as ESP, designed to control lateral slippage. Mercedes introduced the system on its S Class models in 1995. BMW introduced their Robert Bosch manufactured version later that same year on their 7 Series models. At the same time, other manufacturers were working on their own systems; GM introduced Stabilitrak, a version of ESC, on certain Cadillac models in1997.  By 2007 it was standard equipment on all models except certain commercial vehicles. Meanwhile, Ford introduced Advance Trak on certain models in 2000, and by 2008 it was standard on most models.

In 1997, during a simulated moose avoidance test in Germany, a test driver rolled a small A Class Mercedes at a speed of only 47 mph. Mercedes, with their commitment to safety, recalled and retrofitted 130,000 A Class cars with ESP at no cost to their owners. This resulted in a significant reduction in the number of crashes and showed the importance of the feature. As a result, the European Union made ESC mandatory on all new cars built by January 1, 2011, and by January 1, 2014; any older model not equipped or retrofitted with ESC may not be re-sold by a licensed dealer in any European country.

In North America, Ford and GM announced all vehicles would be equipped with AdvanceTrak and Stabilitrak respectively by 2010 while Toyota offers it standard on all models in 2009. As of the 2012 model year the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration requires that all vehicles be equipped with ESC.  They are investigating placing the requirement on truck tractors and certain busses, but that is not finalized.

ESC combines a yaw rate control with anti-lock braking and traction control. Yaw is the rotation of an object around a vertical axis, in other words spinning to the right or left. To enable the system to recognize the problem, in other words the skid, requires a number of sophisticated sensors.  The first sensor is a steering wheel angle sensor. This sensor determines the rotation of the wheel and determines the direction that the driver was intending for the vehicle to travel.  The yaw rate sensor determines the rotation rate of the vehicle, or what direction the vehicle is actually turning.  A lateral acceleration sensor or accelerometer measures the speed of the skid. The ABS wheel speed sensors measure the speed of each individual wheel.  A hydraulic modulator measures and regulates the amount of braking pressure to an individual wheel, which differs from the ABS braking. This system can generate additional hydraulic and/or vacuum pressure as needed for just one or more wheels.

The electronic control unit (ECU) receives all the inputs from the sensors and systems and then analyzes and computes a course of action to counteract the uncontrolled state of the vehicle. Often this is incorporated into the same unit that controls the ABS and traction control, through a Controller Area Network. This is interfaced into the ABS, Traction Control and the engine ECU’s so as to not give any contradictory signals.

Many ECS systems have an override switch so that the driver can disable the ESC under certain conditions such as deep snow, driving on a beach or if a smaller spare tire had to be installed. Some systems also had a limited mode which raises thresholds so that drivers can performance drive their vehicle at or near its limits. Also, systems are designed to reset to turn on the next time the vehicle is started.  ESC only intervenes when it senses a possible loss of steering control, when the vehicle is not traveling in the direction that the driver is steering it. Examples of this are situations such as during an emergency evasive maneuver, hydroplaning, or an understeer or oversteer during poorly judged turns on slippery roads. The system could also activate in an unwanted way during high performance driving because the steering input may contradict the direction of travel such as during drifting.

The system can work on an surface from dry pavement to a frozen lake, often correcting a skid much faster and more effectively than the typical driver, sometimes even before the driver senses loss of control. This has led to some concerns about drivers becoming overly confident of their vehicle’s ability or their driving skills. Because of this, when the system activates, an indicator light illuminates on the dash to let the driver know that the vehicle’s handling limits have been approached. Some even offer an audible warning tone if the driver puts the vehicle into a dangerous situation.

ESC manufacturers emphasize that the system is not designed as a performance enhancement or a safe driving enhancement, but rather to help a driver recover from a bad situation. ESC does not increase traction or enable faster cornering, but it will enable better cornering. A reckless maneuver such as severe hydroplaning due to excess speed in deep water or trying to negotiate a turn at a speed the car is not capable of safely negotiating.

When the steering sensor and the yaw sensor send contradictory signals, the ECU pulls up the individual wheel speeds, the gradient and if equipped, the roll angle signals. The ECU quickly analyzes the signals and sends out the corrective signals, whether it being a separate braking application, throttle retarding or other corrective action. This is accomplished by the computer inputting the signals into a preloaded mathematical control algorithm and compensation signals being sent out depending on the severity of the departure from the baseline numbers.  

As far as cost and effectiveness, it is estimated that the cost of the ESC technology over and above a car equipped with ABS and TCS is about $125-250. This is a small price to pay for a system that can reduce crashes by about 35 percent and by 67 percent in SUVs. An IIHS study concluded that ESC reduces the likelihood of fatal crashes by 56 percent and single vehicle rollovers by 75-80 percent. This could translate into 3500 to 5500 lives saved each year.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Back Up Cameras and Blind Spot Monitors

Back up cameras have existed for quite a few years and have recently become more common on many types of vehicles.  A federal law will require that all new vehicles produced after 2015 are equipped with a back up camera.  Back up cameras were originally introduced for use on motorhomes where rear visibility is severely limited and also because the owner may be towing a car or trailer behind the motorhome with little to no visibility of the towed object.

            Adding a backup camera is a simple process for many manufacturers, since they already equip newer vehicles with a screen used for navigation or playing DVDs which can double as a backup monitor. They are now offered as standard or optional equipment on many SUVs, trucks and vans, and on many higher-end automobiles. On these vehicles, the camera is wired so that when reverse is selected, the display will show the camera view and switch back to GPS or DVD when the vehicle is taken out of reverse.

Most cameras use a wide angle or a fisheye lens to give a wider view of the entire rear of the vehicle. Blind spot alert cameras also use this type of lens. With a rear view camera, the display automatically does a horizontal mirror image flip so that you can get the correct side displayed on the viewer. With these lenses, you get an uninterrupted view of the entire rear of the vehicle.

I want to give you some simple information in easy to understand terms in case you are choosing to purchase a back up camera kit to install on your vehicle. One of the most important features to consider in the purchase of a camera is whether or not it has an automatic switching feature.  Meaning that the display comes on as soon as you put your vehicle into reverse. This is quite simply accomplished if the system is so equipped, by connecting a single wire into the back up light circuit. Additionally, this type can be turned on manually by pushing a power button or a wireless remote if so equipped. Some of the advanced systems can even operate multiple cameras.

The second important feature is the ability to provide the mirrored or reverse image. This means that the picture on the display will duplicate what you would see in the rear view mirror. Some high-end systems actually allow you to select between normal and mirror images. Many of the low priced systems, such as many of those offered on Ebay, do not have this feature. If it is not listed in the features, assume it is not there and do not consider buying it.

A wide-angle field of view is also very important. Low priced systems do not offer more than a 60 or 90-degree view.  While this may be okay for a small automobile, it is not nearly sufficient for a medium to large vehicle. Look for a system that offers 120 to 150 degree field of view with a 1/3-inch image sensor. A camera that offers 180 degrees or more is also not recommended, as it will give a distorted view.

There are two types of sensors, CCD (charge coupled device), and CMOS (complementary metal oxide semiconductor). The CCD image sensor is the preferred type as it offers greater clarity than CMOS. Sharp and Sony produce the highest quality CCD sensors, check to see who manufactures the sensors for the system you are considering.

Also, remember that the camera is mounted on the exterior of the vehicle and is therefore exposed to all sorts of weather conditions. The cameras are generally made to withstand it, but it is important to make sure that the cables and connectors are weather resistant. Many low-end systems use RCA type cable connectors similar to your TV or VCR; these connectors are not weather resistant.  Do not buy a system that will place these in exposed areas!  However, this type connector is okay, and is actually better for use in the interior of the vehicle.

Infrared night vision is also an important feature that can be easily misunderstood. Infrared gives the ability to see in very low or no light situations, which is quite important for night use. On a high quality system, the infrared LEDs turn on automatically when the unit measures the background light below a certain level.  Infrared light is not visible to the human eye as it is out of our vision spectrum, but the camera is designed to make use of it. A good camera will give at least 20 feet and ideally 30 to 50 feet of night vision range.  Don’t buy a system that gives less than 15 feet, as that is less than one car length.

One of the most serious questions to consider is not whether the system will work on your vehicle.  Most systems are designed to by universally compatible, but, how long and how well will they work? Many of the lower priced units do not come equipped with a voltage regulator. If a unit does not have one of these, it is at the mercy of a constantly varying voltage from the vehicle’s electrical system.  This factor will either cause eventual damage to the system, or at least cause serious variation in picture quality. Some high quality cameras are even designed to be adjustable for vehicles that have 24 or even 32-volt systems such as buses and heavy trucks.

If you are purchasing a system with an audible monitoring, make sure that the audible pickup is weatherproofed.  LCD monitors are the preferred type as they offer full color as opposed to the CRT screen’s gray or green screen. For best picture quality, always select a TFT-LCD type monitor. For larger vehicles, a five-inch or larger monitor is preferable, whereas in smaller vehicles or where space is limited, a three or four inch screen is sufficient.

There are four basic types of cameras; the type of mounting mostly determines the difference. Surface mounts are best suited for larger vehicles were it could be mounted on any flat or nearly flat surface.  The camera should be aimed downward at about a thirty-degree angle.  For pickups, cars and smaller SUVs the flush mounted camera is the preferred choice. This camera gets mounted through a hole in the back of the vehicle and should be set at a slightly downward angle. License mount cameras can be mounted on the license plate bracket as long as the camera can be adjusted to the proper angle. There are also side and forward facing cameras for those specific applications.

A hard-wired system will always offer a higher quality picture than a wireless system, as these are susceptible to interference from radio, TV, and cellular transmitters. Most of the wireless systems sold on Ebay will turn out to be a complete disappointment. Hopefully, armed with this information, if you go shopping for a camera, you will be able to find a system that suits your needs and budget, and gives you the kind of service that you deserve for your hard earned investment.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Rear Parking Assist

Rear parking assist is a feature that has been around for about ten to twelve years on select higher end vehicles and slowly became more popular on many SUVs and other vehicles.  However, back-up cameras are gradually replacing it. The system is designed to give warning of any object behind the vehicle while the car is backing up, and to give a more frequent warning as that object is being approached.  There are basically two types of systems in use. Both are considered proximity sensors, which will give off an audible and sometimes a visible warning while backing up. The two types are either electromagnetic or ultrasonic sensors.

            Ultrasonic proximity sensors are the more common of the two types and also the most recognizable. These systems usually have about four or five approximately one-inch diameter round sensors installed in the rear bumper cover. These sensors detect the distance between the object and the sensor by emitting acoustic pulses. A control unit measures the return interval of each reflected signal and calculates the distance. The system then warns the driver by emitting an audible tone inside the passenger cabin with the frequency of the tone signaling the distance. It emits a faster tone as the vehicle approaches the object until as it is very near it will emit a continuous tone.  Some vehicles have incorporated an LED or LCD indicator to provide a visible as well as the audible warning. A portion of the newer vehicles using this system even show the location and size of the object as a colored block on the vehicles’ infotainment system.

           

Generally, rear sensors are automatically activated when the vehicle is placed in reverse. One drawback of ultrasonic systems is that they rely on the reflection of sound waves, which may not be reflected off a flat object or a flat object that is set at an angle that prevents the return signal from reaching the sensor. The other drawback that I have personally witnessed is the pickup of false readings from heavy rainfall. A third, but minor drawback is that this type of sensor must be externally mounted, usually in the bumper fascia.

Mauro Del Signore patented electromagnetic parking sensor systems in 1992. These sensors rely on the vehicle moving slowly and smoothly toward the object to be detected. Once noticed, the signal will continue even if the vehicle stops moving. Once the vehicle resumes motion, the signal will become more frequent and intense until the vehicle stops moving and changes direction. The advantage to this system is that it can be mounted on the inside of the rear bumper without requiring any holes to be drilled or the cover to be defaced. It is also now possible to order a camera to work in conjunction with this system.

Next week we will cover backup cameras and blind spot monitors as these two systems utilize the same technology.  Some information for this article was sourced from Wikipedia.org.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Anti-Whiplash Head Restraints

Anti-whiplash head restraints were first introduced in 1999. Whiplash is the sudden jerking motion of the head in a rear end collision. This injury is often minor to mild and will go away after a few days or weeks. However, about 10-15 percent of whiplash incidents will cause long term or permanent injury and the pain and effects can be debilitating.

            Saab was the first manufacturer to introduce an active anti-whiplash headrest system as standard equipment across their entire product line. Although the company obtained patents for its system, they offered the technology to any other company that wanted to use it as they felt the importance of limiting these injuries was more important than the financial gain that they could obtain. A little later the same year, Volvo introduced their own system called WHIPS. These are the two basic systems that are in use, and while they are both doing the same job, they differ in design and operation.

            The Saab system is such a simple system that it is hard to believe that it took so long for someone to introduce it. The headrest consists of the outer headrest assembly, which is attached to an arm that is anchored in the upper part of the backrest. The lower end of the arm is attached to a flat plate that is located in the lower center of the backrest.

When the automobile is struck in the rear, the person’s body will be pressed into the seat by the impact. That pressure pivots the headrest forward to contact the back of the head, preventing the rearward snapping motion that causes the injury. As soon as the impact is over, the headrest returns to its original position and requires no repairs or resetting. The other plus to this system is that in the event of multiple impacts, it will activate upon each impact and be ready for the next.

            The Volvo system, WHIPS, is somewhat different. In the event of a rear-end collision, the seatback moves with the occupant while the headrest remains rigid. A WHIPS seat also has a plate in the backrest, but in this design, it actually absorbs some of the energy of the impact. This occurs while the bottom of the backrest pivots to allow movement of the hip joint, and moves rearward to absorb additional energy. The one major difference with this system is that it does require repairs to the seat to restore it to its correct operation and seating position.

            Studies of vehicles with anti-whiplash protection systems, sustaining rear impact collisions by various testing agencies have shown a reduction of short-term whiplash injuries by between 25-40 percent.  However, even more important is the effect on long-term whiplash injuries, a reduction of a staggering 54 percent. When you consider the high costs of rear impact injuries and the pain that the victims suffer, this is a very significant reduction in cost and in pain and suffering.

The most important thing to remember if you own a vehicle with an anti-whiplash protection system is to keep your headrest properly adjusted. When I was selling Saabs a number of years ago, we were instructed to share and demonstrate to the customer the proper alignment of the headrest. That positioning is to have the horizontal centerline of the headrest even with the person’s ears. In this position, the system will offer maximum protection.

           

The improvements in headrest technology have been impressive. In 1995, the National Institute for Highway Safety gave only 3 percent of vehicles a good rating at reducing head/neck injuries. By 2005, just ten years later, that number had grown to 51 percent.

            I can personally attest to the effectiveness of the Saab system.   About two months ago, my family and I were traveling to Atlantic City in our 2001 Saab 9-5SE. On Route 42, traffic was stopping in front of us. While at a complete stop, a young girl, talking on her cell phone, rear-ended us without apparently braking at all. Our Saab was totaled; we were pushed into two other cars immediately in front of us, and our vehicle was shortened about six to eight inches. The police and the insurance appraiser both estimated impact at about 50 MPH. The only injury suffered by the four people in our car was a sore left shoulder and arm by my wife. These systems do work, and if you are thinking about a new vehicle, it is something well worth factoring in to your buying decision.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Side, Curtain and other Air Bags

Side airbags utilize a different type of system for deployment. They are usually packaged into the backrest of the front seats and deploy by splitting the seam of the covering.  Though a few manufacturers place the bag into the center post between the doors. The system is set up with a pressure sensor in each door and each door has a sealed covering inside the inner door trim to maintain it as a sealed cavity. When the door gets hit, the change in pressure from the outer panel crushing sends the signal to the ACU, which then sends the trigger signal to the appropriate airbag(s).  The airbag will then deploy in a manner similar to how the front airbags do.

Some manufacturers, such as Saab, have developed a two-stage side airbag where the lower or torso section of the bag deploys first, and then a split second later the upper section deploys. This is intended to prevent the whipping motion that would cause the head to strike the side door.

            Certain vehicles use a head curtain airbag in place of or sometimes in conjunction with the seat-mounted side airbag. Head curtain airbags deploy from the same signal as a side airbag from the pressure sensor in the door.  They also deploy in a similar method, but deploy downward from the inside of the roof-rail. Head curtain airbags can offer an additional protection if the vehicle is equipped with a rollover sensing system. If so equipped, the head curtain airbag can deploy in the event of a rollover to prevent injury, and can possibly even prevent ejection from the vehicle.

Gyroscopes and accelerometers that determine the angle of inclination, the speed and direction of travel, and send their signals to the ACU actuate rollover systems.  This in turn, analyzes the signals and deploys the airbag or bags if needed. These sensors are the same ones, which actuate a fuel shutoff in the event of a rollover. Usually on four-wheel drive vehicles there is a manual switch to shut off the rollover system if the operator is going off-roading.

            There are also some vehicles that are equipped with either knee or torso frontal airbags. These systems work similar to and read the same signals as the front airbags.

            Seat-belt pretensioners are an important part of most airbag systems. When the trigger signal is sent to the airbag, the same signal goes to the seat-belt pretensioners for the front seat occupants. Each seatbelt unit has a small tube, usually about six inches long with an actuating charge at the lower end, attached to the recoil mechanism on the seat belt retractor. When the unit receives a trigger signal, the charge goes off, locking the belt and propelling the lock up the tube, which pulls in three to four inches of slack from the seatbelt and locking it in place to restrain the person occupying that seat.

When locked, the seat belt may be pulled so tight that it might have to be cut it if the latch cannot be released. While working as a Saab technician, I had to remove and replace a seat belt unit under warranty. The defective unit was to be returned after replacement, but we were not allowed to ship it charged, so I detonated it for shipment. I have to say that it was about as loud as setting off an M80 firecracker.  I also detonated an airbag for the same reason. 

To detonate an airbag, Saab supplied an actuator button which had two leads attached to it, one to connect to a car battery, and the other about fifteen feet long to connect to the airbag. We placed the airbag backside down on the pavement outside the building, attached the leads and detonated it. The bag actually jumped about four to five feet into the air and the sound was extremely loud. My only thought was, ‘did I really want something like that going off in my face?’  However, considering the possible alternatives in the event of a serious crash, I guess I would appreciate it after all.

            Next week we will review anti-whiplash head restraints. Some information for this article was obtained from www.wikipedia.org.