Ask Joe Mechanic - Automatic Transmission Servicing

Last week we examined the idea of performing an engine flush and found that in most cases, it is not a recommended procedure. When it comes to transmission flushing, the opposite opinion is true. Most technicians will tell you that a properly performed transmission flush will prolong the life of a transmission, and in some cases, even cure some early signs of a transmission problem such as minor slipping on pullout or sluggish upshifting.

            The first type of transmission maintenance is the basic fluid level check on cars with a dipstick. Most cars need to be checked with the engine warm and running with the transmission in park. The reason for the engine and trans being warm is because transmission fluid expands as the temperature increases. Check either on your dipstick or in the owners’ manual as to the instructions for your vehicle as some cars need to be checked in neutral, and Hondas need to be checked with the engine shut off. There are two important things to observe when you check your fluid. The first, of course is the proper fluid level, which should be at or very close to the full mark. If near or below the add mark, you need to add the appropriate type fluid for your vehicle. Also observe the color and condition of the transmission fluid. It should be a reddish color and it may have some small bits of black particles in it as the clutches wear. If the fluid is brown, smells burned, or has metallic particles in it, these are signs of problems.

            One of the things to know on late model vehicles is that in many cases the manufacturer no longer installs a transmission dipstick, leaving some people to believe that the transmission no longer requires regular maintenance. This is actually quite false. While some vehicles have a sensor, which will indicator trans fluid condition and level on the info display similar to an engine oil indicator, others give no indication. It is true that synthetic trans fluid lasts longer than the older traditional fluids, it still will break down and become contaminated over time and should be changed. Therefore, trans fluid checking and servicing has now basically become a dealer controlled maintenance item unless you are able to locate the fill level plug to check it.

            Ultimately, your owners manual will tell you what transmission servicing is recommended for your vehicle. It will give you a schedule of recommended fluid changes, often between every 24,000 to 36,000 miles. If a transmission flush is recommended, it will probably range between 60,000 and 100,000 miles, while some manufacturers will not recommend flushing at all.

            Opinions vary greatly as to whether or not this process is necessary for proper vehicle maintenance.  Yes, flushing a transmission assists in removing dirt from the torque converter, valve body, trans cooler and cooler lines, but is it really beneficial to an engine?  An article on Wisegeek.com reflects that some automotive professionals report that regular flushing assist with better working and longer last transmissions.  However, the same article notes that many feel that flushes are unnecessary and can damage a vehicle’s valves and seals.

On most vehicles, it is still possible for a mechanically inclined person to do a fluid and filter change, and this is definitely better than no servicing at all. The first thing you should do is to either pull your vehicle up on servicing ramps or jack the vehicle up and place it securely on jack stands. If there is a drain plug, remove the plug and drain into an appropriate drain pan. If no plug is present, or after draining, carefully unbolt and remove the transmission pan, allowing it to drain into your drain pan. Look in the bottom of the pan to see if there is any dirt, sludge or metallic particles. A presence of large amounts of deposits is a sign of developing problems. Clean the inside of the pan, remove the old gasket and set aside. Now remove the filter, more fluid should now drain out of the valve body, and dispose of the old filter. Install a new filter, a new gasket and reinstall the pan. Estimate how many quarts of fluid that you have drained and add slightly less than that amount. Lower the car to the ground, start the engine and run until warm. Move the shift selector through all positions and place back in park. Check your fluid and add as necessary to bring up to the proper level. Drive the car about fifteen minutes and then recheck and add fluid if needed. While this process does not remove all the fluid from the transmission, it does serve as a great benefit.

When using a transmission flushing machine, more of the old fluid is removed, and the overall transmission system is cleaned. This means that there is less dirt and old fluid to contaminate and weaken the new fluid. In some cases, a special transmission flushing chemical is added to help clean the system before the new transmission fluid is added. The fresh transmission fluid means that the transmission should run cooler and more efficiently, thereby prolonging the life of the transmission.

The only way a transmission flushing machine will damage your transmission is if a high pressure back-flush type machine is used to force fluid backward through the transmission. This type of flushing system is hardly used anymore. In most cases, a transmission flush does not rely on pressure to flush out the residue of the old fluid. Instead, the transmission's pump or a machine is used to gently circulate the new fluid through the system either by connecting directly to the transmission pump or into the transmission cooler lines and follows its normal path of circulation. This means that rather than applying pressure that could damage the transmission, simple replacement is used to rid the system of most of the old fluid.

There are two slight drawbacks to the systems that connect to the transmission cooler lines. First, is that unlike the normal transmission circulation path, this pushes all the fluid through the lower pressure regulator which controls the internal system of the transmission, it will not direct fluid through the higher pressure regulator to the torque convertor. This means that there will still be some old fluid left in the system which will somewhat dilute the new fluid. The other issue is that by not removing the pan, the filter will not get changed unless you request it, and the technician will not have the opportunity to examine the inside of the pan.

In general, periodic transmission flushes are a good idea, no matter which of the two current types of machines is used. But, there is one time that you definitely should not do a transmission flush. If the fluid has a severely burned smell or there is a collection of metallic particles on the dipstick, your transmission has internal part damage and is probably very close to failing. Your transmission just has not figured out that it should die yet, but if you flush it, it will most likely fail almost immediately. Save your money for a replacement transmission, because at some time, probably in the near future, you will need one. This is one of the major reasons why you would want a transmission flush to be performed by a qualified professional.

Portions of this article were sourced from the Transmission Flushing article featured on www.wisegeek.com. 

Ask Joe Mechanic - Engine Flushing

A hotly debated subject is engine flushing and whether it is beneficial or it is actually harmful to an engine. No two technicians seem to agree as to whether you should perform this service on your vehicle.    

The process of engine flushing is used to clean sludge, dirt and deposits that build up in the internal parts of an engine, especially inside the valve cover and the oil pan over time. The main purpose of performing an engine flush is to try to extend the life of the engine. By flushing an engine periodically, the inside of the engine will hopefully stay relatively clean and will operate more efficiently. 

The method used to flush an engine is somewhat like what is used to flush a transmission. When flushing a transmission, the fluid is pushed through the transmission to carry the old fluid and dirt and deposits out of the transmission by way of the drain plug. With engine flushing, a cleaning chemical is added to the engine oil and circulates through the lubrication system. The chemicals eat away at the deposits, eventually making their way into the oil pan, where they collect in the bottom of the pan to allow it to be drained.

While the theory behind flushing an engine seems like something that should be done on a periodic basis, there is much disagreement as to whether it is smart and effective to do. While it is general knowledge that it can be beneficial in low mileage vehicles that have not had proper maintenance performed, something that is often found to happen in lease vehicles where the leasee feels that it is not my vehicle and I am giving it back in two or three years, so why worry about changing oil and spending that extra money. Many technicians question whether it is a good idea in higher mileage vehicles. There is the chance in an older engine that the buildup of sludge may be more than the chemicals in the flush can properly loosen and remove, which could worsen a bad situation. Another fear is that the sludge will lie in the pan and clog the oil pump pickup screen and cause oil starvation. Instead of performing an engine flush, it is much more effective to disassemble and clean the engine as long as it is in good operating condition, even though this is more expensive, or else do a complete engine rebuild if it is determined that the engine is not in good condition. 

Because there is such a difference of opinion whether to do an engine flush or not, not every garage offers or recommends this service. Some facilities that used to do engine flushes, including a dealer where I used to work, no longer do so. Even in shops that do engine flushes, they will generally have a technician check the condition of the engine before they will do the flush. 

It is important to remember that there is no substitute for proper maintenance. If anything, an engine flush should be considered as a way to supplement the proper care of the engine and thereby help to prolong its life. Also, if you do choose to perform this service, I recommend having a professional do it and seek their advice first, I do not consider this a wise do it yourself procedure.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Improving Fuel Economy Part 3

This week we will examine driving habits that can affect your fuel economy. One of the first ways that you can increase your fuel economy is to use your cruise control. The engine electronics system can make a smoother throttle transition then the majority of drivers are able to do, thereby increasing their mileage.

            Slow down. The faster you move, the harder your engine has to work to push through the wind. Speeding can reduce fuel efficiency by up to 33 percent.  Factors other than air resistance decrease fuel economy below about 60 mph (97 km/h), so fuel economy is not a reason to go slower, but fuel economy decreases rapidly above that speed.

            Avoid braking wherever possible. Braking wastes energy from fuel that you have already burned, and accelerating after braking consumes more fuel than driving at a constant speed. On city streets watch ahead and coast when you see a red light or traffic jam ahead.

            Avoid excessive idling. Idling a vehicle wastes a significant amount of fuel. The best way to warm up a vehicle is to drive it slowly until it reaches proper operating temperature. In cold weather warm the car engine no more than 30 seconds. This period of time is sufficient to ensure that the engine is properly lubricated for driving. Generally, if you can avoid 10 seconds of idling you will save gas by turning the engine off and restarting. However, starting an engine too often can lead to excessive wear and tear on the starter motor and wiring.

            Find your car's "sweet speed".  Some cars get better mileage at specific speeds, usually 50 mph (80 km/h). Your car's "sweet speed" is the minimum speed at which the car is running in its highest gear (watch for rpm drops as you accelerate to determine when your transmission is shifting into higher gears). For example, most Jeep Cherokees are best at 55 mph (89 km/h), and Toyota 4Runners are best at about 50 mph (80 km/h). Find your vehicle's "sweet speed" and pick your roads accordingly.

            If your car has an automatic transmission with overdrive, make sure you enable overdrive except when towing very heavy trailers. Overdrive is by default enabled on the "D" on most shifters. Several cars have buttons on the shifter which allow you to turn off the overdrive gear. Don't turn it off except in specific circumstances it may be needed such as for engine braking downhill or failure to proceed uphill smoothly in overdrive. Overdrive saves you gas mileage at higher speeds by using a lower ratio from engine speed to wheel speed - this places the engine at a more efficient operating point (by reducing throttling losses, etc).

            Learn to watch and predict traffic signals. In city driving, study at what speed you can make multiple traffic lights, and slow down before a light so you may not have to stop completely.  Stop-and-go driving is wasteful.  Don't circle in a parking lot, and keep well away from the store fronts. Look for a spot in the empty half of the parking lot. Many people spend significant time idling and creeping, waiting for a "close spot" to open up.

            Maintain a safe following distance! Don't stick to the bumper of the car directly in front of you. You will brake more and accelerate more to keep that unnecessary and dangerous narrow gap. Relax. Hang back a bit. You're still traveling at the same speed as the car ahead of you even if you're 100 yards (91.4 m) behind. This also gives you a lot more room to play with when you are timing lights. When he slams on his brakes, you can coast down and see if the light quick-changes green again (some do). You might even coast by his car as the light turns green and he has to accelerate from a dead stop.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Improving Fuel Economy Part 2

The second set of ways to save fuel is called fuel savings. First, keep your tank between one quarter and three quarters full. Filling to the top on a large vehicle can add ten gallons more fuel which transmits to 60 pounds of extra weight. Running the tank below one quarter puts extra strain on the electric fuel pump which demands more current, and also in winter present the opportunity for condensation to form in the tank and result in a gas line freeze up.

            Buy quality fuel. No two fuels are the same, and while 'discount' brand fuel may save you a few cents/ Gal, it can contain a higher percentage of ethanol, which burns at a faster rate. Compare the mileage between fuel companies and see what is best for your car.

                  Use synthetic oil in your car to save an average of five percent of gas. Remember to change it according to your vehicle manufacturers recommendations for any oil. Extending oil change intervals can be harmful to the life of your engine and the fuel-saving benefits are lost, as oil gets dirty. If you can't use synthetic, choose the lightest oil possible, 5W-30 rather than 15W-50. If you do not use synthetic oil, consider a synthetic oil additive which can reduce engine friction.

                  Try to avoid using the air conditioner in stop-and-go city driving as it causes the engine to work hard and consume more fuel. However, studies show that at highway speeds cars get somewhat better mileage with the AC on and the windows rolled up. The drag caused by rolled down windows at high speed reduces fuel efficiency more than the AC.

                  If you're trying to find a direct way to control the amount of gas you are using, monitor how hard your engine is working is key. A/C, acceleration, and speed all, of course, affect work but these are not direct indicators. If your car is equipped with a tachometer, try monitoring the RPMs (or revolutions per minute) your engine is running at. It's like monitoring your pulse to find out how hard your heart is working. You will find that there are RPM ranges which are ideal for your car and others that are not. If you find the engine is running at above 3000 RPMs, it's possible you're accelerating at an unnecessarily a low gear. So, ease off the pedal and let the engine build up a higher speed at a lower RPM.  The lower average RPM you travel the lower your work and this directly determines your gas mileage.

                  We will cover the third group, driving habits, next week as there are many ways driving habits affect fuel mileage. As far as trip planning, keep lists of needs that will require a trip and try to accomplish multiple objectives with each. This will not increase your fuel mileage (the number of miles your car moves for each gallon of gas), but it will help you drive less (which, in turn, means you use less gas).

                  Plan your route carefully. Take the route with the fewest stops and turns and least traffic. Take highways in preference to city streets when possible. Also, maintain a log over time of how many miles you go (the main odometer) and how much gas you put in (from the gas pump, including fractions). This can tell you if your mileage drops and that there may be a problem with your vehicle.

Ask Joe Mechanic - Increasing Fuel Economy Part 1

I realize that with the recent drop in gasoline prices that we have seen, conserving fuel is not something that is seriously on our minds. Even though prices are at about a six year low, it is still important that we should always try to conserve as much fuel as possible. It still keeps extra money in our pockets, but more importantly, it is good for the environment and it is good for our vehicles.

            There are four main groups of ways to conserve gas. First is the car we drive and how we take care of it. Secondly we can look at ways to save on the cost of fuel. Third is to examine our personal driving habits. And fourth is planning our trips. This week we will look at the first and next week we will try to look at the other three.

            Properly inflated tires can reduce fuel consumption by up to 3%. Your tires also lose about 1 PSI per month, and when the tires are cold (e.g., in the winter), their pressure will decrease due to the thermal contraction of the air. It is recommended to check tires at least monthly, preferably weekly. Having properly inflated tires will also help you avoid uneven wear on the tread. Recommended inflation pressures are for cold tires; put about 3 PSI more in if the tires have been driven on awhile. Inflate to the pressure recommended by the car manufacturer, not the maximum stamped on the tire.

            A properly tuned engine maximizes power and can greatly enhance fuel efficiency. Beware, though, that many tuners will disable efficiency measures when tuning for power. When doing a tune up, always check the air filter as a dirty filter will reduce fuel economy, or make the engine stall when idling. Just like mowing dusty grass, driving dusty dirt roads will clog the air filter: avoid dust clouds. Also, replace the fuel filter according to the car manufacturer's recommended schedule. This will go a long way to enhancing fuel efficiency.

            Get the lightest car that will serve your needs. Weight is one of the biggest causes for loss of kinetic energy in non-hybrid cars. If you're not shopping for cars, then take any extra weight off of the one you're already driving. If seats that you don't use can be removed such as in a van or minivan, take them out. If you use your trunk as a storage space for heavy things, find another place for them.  An extra 100 pounds of weight increases fuel consumption by 1-2%. (Weight is most important in stop-and-go driving.  In almost exclusively highway driving, it matters little: once the car is up to speed, it need only push air out of the way.) Don't remove things from the car that you need frequently; instead, make sure these are in the car and readily accessible because wasted trips to retrieve or replace them will be much worse than a little lower mileage.

            Another way to conserve gas is to use the tire width that the tire manufacturer recommends.  Narrow tires have less frontal area, thus reducing aerodynamic drag. Remember, however, that narrow tires have less traction as well (which is why race cars have such wide tires). Do not get a tire that is incompatible with your wheels, and do not get smaller wheels unless your manufacturer approves.  Select low-rolling-resistance compound tires. These can increase fuel economy by a few percent. (The difference is not startling or a substitute for proper inflation. It would be wasteful to replace the former tires with these before they are worn out.)

            On fuel-injected cars, make sure the oxygen sensors, engine emissions system, and evaporative emissions control systems are in good shape. Often the "check engine light" coming on is an indication that there is a problem with one of these components. A damaged oxygen sensor may cause your car to have too rich of a fuel mixture, decreasing your fuel mileage by 20% or more.

Ask Joe Mechanic - How Important is an Oil Change?

It’s there dominating the “to do” list and procrastinating only makes it worse. It’s the car’s oil change. Was that reminder sticker on the windshield purposely put there to make you feel bad? Let’s try a different approach, looking at all the good things that happen when the oil and filter in your car are changed.

First lets assume your car is one that is driven a minimum number of miles and seldom reaches the 3,500 miles in three months’ time. Your vehicle needs the oil change more than cars that are driven more often. In the short trip mode the engine heat ups and then cools down for long periods creating condensation. The moisture can be seen accumulating on the oil fill cap in the form of a gray oily globular mess. Sometimes this condition can be misdiagnosed as an internal engine problem. You probably can drop back to an oil change three times a year or the minimum time interval prescribed in your owner’s manual. For normal usage, some people think cars can last 10,000 miles on their oil, others say not even half that. A nice general rule is every four to six months, or somewhere around 5,000 miles, especially if you are using synthetic or synthetic blend motor oils.

Secondly, oil breaks down over time and extended usage and it picks up dirt and contaminants, and these can deposit in your oil pan as a thick, gooey sludge which can eventually clog the pickup screen for the oil pump. If this occurs, it can cause oil starvation to the engine and cause a premature engine failure at worst, or at least the expensive cost of removing the oil pan to clean out the pan and the oil pickup.

Also, if your car has a turbocharger or a supercharger, regular oil changes are even more important. Remember the turbo is spinning at 100,000s of rpm.  It also runs really hot so any oil in the turbo when the engine is switched off will degrade unless it is in good condition. This also shows the importance of allowing the engine to cool down a little before shutting down after a spirited run.

Next, don’t underestimate the value of having a trained individual under the hood of your car. They will be able to spot a number of trouble situations that, if left untreated, have the potential to cause a breakdown. They should be looking for fluid leakage, cracked or frayed belts, bulging hoses and safety items including torn wiper blades, burned out lights, and unsafe tires. The success of this approach only works if you have found a shop that distinguishes true customer need from sales effort.

The regular oil change also establishes a benchmark of when your car’s maintenance needs are to be met. For instance, every third oil change can be the point at which the tires need to be rotated. Also, your recognition of what fluids had to be added may serve as the first warning sign that one of the systems is leaking. The need to repeatedly add coolant may indicate a leaking water pump, for example.

The underside of your car is rarely seen. The oil change provides the technician a chance to easily look for undercar problems. These would include torn CV boots, broken exhaust parts, or problems with the transmission or differential. Anything that’s broken, loose or excessively worn is in clear sight. This idea of the lube tech or service facility disclosing legitimate problems only works to your advantage if you’re in the hands of a reputable shop.

Your car’s oil change may be something you don’t look forward to and hate to take the time to get done. However, there isn’t a car maintenance procedure that is more beneficial to your car when it’s done by a service facility you trust.

            Just remember, your vehicle is likely the second most costly investment you will make in your life besides your home. If your sink is leaking or your furnace is due for service, are you going to ignore it? When water comes through your ceiling after a hard storm and you have a large wet spot on your ceiling, are you going to say, well, maybe next month I can get to it? I don’t think so! Treat your car the way you would your home and it will most likely give you years of good service.

Ask Joe Mechanic: Winter Car Washing

            If you think that car washing is just for sunny summer days, you had best think again. It is actually even more important to do regular car washing in the winter.

            People have different preferences when it comes to car washing. Some people just take their car to the local car spa and have them do the job for them. Others take their car to an automatic drive-thru to get the job done quickly and at low cost.  However, others really like to take their time and hand wash and primp and polish their pride and joy. While this may be fun to do on a nice sunny summer day, when it is cold and blustery, that can quickly zap anyone’s ambition and make it a painstaking and even painful job. Also, environmental experts tend to frown on washing in your driveway because of the wastewater and chemical-cleaning agents going into the storm sewer system. Commercial car washes recycle and filter their water.

            Preventative car care is especially important when the cold weather sets in. The road additives such as salt, liquid brine and sand or cinders can wreak havoc on a car’s finish, corrode the undercarriage and potentially rust the wheel wells. Keeping the car clean and waxed can protect the finish and help protect from scratches and marring from winter road debris.

          Car corrosion damage is especially common during the winter months. Prevention remains the best solution to corrosion, and a car wash is one of the best preventive measures and costs a minimal amount of money and little physical effort. If you are planning to wash your car during the winter, it is best to select a day when the temperature is at least a few degrees above freezing if possible. If you feel you must wash your car and it is below freezing, try to park your car in a garage afterwards or at least drive the car for a few minutes to remove excess moisture. And, try to avoid blasting water directly into the door and trunk locks to prevent them from freezing.

Automatic car washes are a convenient way to clean a vehicle in the winter. The one downside is that these facilities tend to use harsh chemicals to eat through the debris. With brush type systems, this can result in swirl patterns or scratches to your car’s finish. Also, hard water can tend to leave spots on a car finish. An alternative is to head to one of the local do-it-yourself car washes.  Bring your own cleaning products so that you have a high-pressure water supply to help you get the job done quickly and right. Even if you cannot do the kind of cleaning job you like to do when the weather is warmer, rinsing the dirt and grime from your car, and especially spaying the wheel wells, rocker panels and the underside of our vehicle can go a long way toward preventing destructive corrosion.

Washing your car in winter is not something that most people enjoy, but it is a good way to help keep your car looking good for a long time.

This week’s recalls:

2342 2013-2014 Polaris Victory Cross Country, Cross Roads, Hammer Eight Ball, High Ball, Jackpot, Vegas Eight Ball, 2014 Victory Cross Country Eight Ball, Cross Roads Eight Ball, Ness Cross Country, 2015 Victory Gunner, and 2013 Victory Hardball motorcycles. The fuel pump in the affected motorcycles may have been incorrectly crimped during manufacturing, which may result in the fuel pump seizing.

198,900 2008-2011 Subaru Impreza, 2008-2014 WRX and STI, and 2009-2013 Forester vehicles, currently, or formerly, registered in Connecticut, Delaware, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, Michigan, Minnesota, Missouri, New Hampshire, New Jersey, New York, Ohio, Pennsylvania, Rhode Island, Vermont, West Virginia, Wisconsin and the District of Columbia that were remedied under recall 14V-311 prior to December 23, 2014. The brake lines may experience brake line corrosion due to salt water splashing on the brake lines through a gap in the fuel tank protector. Brake fluid may leak due to the brake line corrosion and may result in longer distances being required to slow or stop the vehicle, increasing the risk of a crash.

159 Forest River 2015 Vibe VBT272BHS travel trailers manufactured July 15, 2014, to December 19, 2014. These trailers may have incorrect tire size and tire pressure information on the Federal Certification and Tire labels. The information on the label lists the installed tires as ST225/75R15/C inflated to 50 PSI, however the tires that are actually mounted on the trailer are ST225/75R15/D inflated to 65 PSI. As such, these trailers fail to comply with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard (FMVSS) number 110, "Tire Selection and Rims and Motor Home/Recreation Vehicle Trailer Load Carrying Capacity Information for Motor Vehicles with a GVWR of 4,536 Kilograms (10,000 Pounds) or Less." If the tires are replaced with the tires indicated on the label, the tires may be insufficient to carry the load and a tire blow out may result, increasing the risk of a crash.

773 2012-2014 Champion American Crusader, Challenger, Crusader, CTS-FE, CTS-RE, Defender, EZ-Street, HC American, HCAC, LF Transport, M1235, Platinum Shuttle, Stacked Rail, and Federal Coach Premier, and Spirit transit buses manufactured January 1, 2012, to October 1, 2014, equipped with certain triangle warning signs manufactured by Imperial Supplies, LLC. Test reports indicate that the triangle warning signs, labeled C&J, may reflect an inadequate amount of light. As such, these triangle warning kits fail to comply with Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard No. 125, "Warning devices." Warning triangles that do not properly reflect light may fail to warn others that a vehicle is parked, increasing the risk of a crash.

3924 2014-2015 Toyota 4Runner, Tacoma, FJ Cruiser, Land Cruiser, RAV4, Scion FRS, and XB vehicles. The affected vehicles may have accessories installed by SET, such as running boards or other items, that were incorrectly installed. The accessory attaching fasteners were not tightened with the proper torque, possibly causing the accessory to detach from the vehicle. Accessories that detach from a vehicle may result in a vehicle crash and/or personal injury.

If you own one of these vehicles, contact your dealer for further instructions on what to do.

Ask Joe Mechanic: Increase Your Winter Visibility

Visibility is an essential component of automotive safety. According to the United States Department of Transportation's Federal Highway Administration, inability to clearly see the road, other motorists and potential obstacles is a leading contributor to automotive accidents and injury.

Approximately half of all fatalities due to motor vehicle crashes occur at night, even though the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration notes that traffic volume is substantially less at night. Lack of visibility, which may result from a dirty windshield or inclement weather, can render pavement markings nearly invisible or throw off drivers' senses of direction.

Poor visibility can be hazardous, and drivers must take steps to ensure they have maximum visibility at all times, whether it's day or night or if the weather is poor or fair.

One of the best ways to ensure maximum visibility is to keep your windshield clean. Not all windshield washer fluids and wipers are created equally. For example, some washer fluids are ineffective in freezing temperatures. Frozen washer fluid can cause a complete blockage of the system and greatly impair visibility.

As anyone who has driven on snowy and/or salty roads can attest, such substances can quickly gather on windshields, where they crust up and impede visibility. A windshield cleaning system that is not working effectively is a recipe for an accident.

Always read the product label before purchasing washer fluid. Summer blends are only effective when temperatures remain above 32 F. When the mercury dips below freezing, these fluids freeze up. Winter formulas should contain an antifreeze solution that will lower the freezing point of the liquid. Many such fluids employ methanol to not only prevent freezing but also to melt frost and light accumulations of ice.

Drivers also may be able to supplement their washer fluids with common items to increase durability during extreme cold snaps. Mix 99 percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol into the washer fluid to prevent it from freezing. Otherwise, the washer fluid brand may have specific instructions for mixing for use in areas where the temperature regularly dips below freezing.

Combine these visibility tips with the inclement weather driving recommendations we shared a few weeks ago and you’re sure to remove much of the stress from your winter time commutes and road trips.

This week’s recalls:
2011-2012 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV, Escalade EXT, Chevrolet Avalanche, Silverado HD, Silverado LD, Suburban, Tahoe, GMC Sierra LD, Sierra HD, Yukon, Yukon XL The Problem: An improperly sized ignition lock actuator can make it difficult to turn the key, which could become stuck in the “start” position. Through either a “jarring event” or a cool interior temperature, the ignition lock could move into the “accessory” position. The result is loss of engine power, power steering, and power braking, and deactivated airbag deployment. The Fix: Dealers will inspect vehicles and if necessary replace the faulty ignition lock component at no cost to owners.

2015 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 and GMC Sierra 1500 The Problem: Rear axle shafts in these vehicles may have been improperly heat-treated, resulting in possible fracture without warning. The rear wheel could potentially separate from the axle shaft. The Fix: GM dealers will inspect rear axle shafts and replace faulty parts for free.

2015 Chevrolet Silverado HD and GMC Sierra HD The Problem: Hose clamps for the fuel tank in these diesel-powered pickups may not have been properly tightened by assembly plant personnel, increasing the risk of a fuel leak and possible fire. The Fix: Dealers will inspect and if necessary tighten the fuel tank hose clamp in question, free of charge.

2014 Ford Escape and 2015 Lincoln MKC The Problem: Nickel-plating on the fuel pumps of these crossovers may cause seizing fuel pumps, which could induce a vehicle stall or failure to start. The Fix: Dealers will inspect and if necessary replace the fuel delivery module.

2015 Lincoln MKC The Problem: Because of the push-button ignition switch’s close proximity to other buttons on the center control stack, people are accidentally shutting off the engine while driving. The Fix: Dealers will replace and reprogram gearshift and powertrain control modules, replacing a center console panel with a new panel that relocates the push-button start control.